Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Chris Alber, '98
Page Views: 246 total · 2/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Aug 2, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This cleverly named pitch has three "5.11" sections broken up by no hands rest ledges. It is the next route left from Mother Goose. The bottom is awkward and slightly dangerous and the top is slabby and uninspiring. Don't waste your time.

Protection

8 quickdraws and 2 more for the anchors.

Photos

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Lauren D. Hollingsworth
Colorado and Kentucky
  5.11a/b R
Lauren D. Hollingsworth   Colorado and Kentucky
  5.11a/b R
I found the first two cruxes of the route very fun. They make the route well worth doing. I did find that the third bolt was a dangerous clip. Unless you're about 5'8" or taller, you can't clip from the stance on the ledge. A fall from that ledge would involve hitting the ledge then going headfirst/rolling off onto the deck. The third crux was somewhat frustrating as the clip was too high for me to get from the good ledge. The third crux is suitable for a colder, stickier day. I suggest adding a bolt between the 2nd and 3rd existing bolts or stick-clipping to the 3rd. May 11, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.11a/b
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.11a/b
The climbing on it was pretty good, but the bolting was idiotic. The second bolt forces a contrived clipping crux. Poorly bolted. Interesting granite pockets too, but I guess I'm several years too late to the party. Aug 6, 2010
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.11a
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.11a
We top roped this climb after leading Mother Goose and really enjoyed it. An onsight lead of this climb would be a bold and dangerous undertaking. The first crux is protected well enough, I guess, but Ben is right. Clipping that second bolt would raise the difficulty a letter grade. At the second 11 move, that bolt is really a stretch. Lauren has it right when she points out the out of reach bolts at both the second and third 11 sections. It looks like one has to climb halfway through the third crux before the clip can be made. That said, the steep upper wall had some really good moves similar to the crux moves on "The Other One". Our plan is to try the lead with quickdraws in place. In no way was this climb a waste of time. Even guys watching from the Big Dipper said it looked like fun. Just top rope it first. Sep 4, 2010
Jarred Cleerdin
  5.11a
Jarred Cleerdin  
  5.11a
Must do, what a blast! This one is way chill if your 6 foot or taller for the high clips. Shorter folks would definitely have a R rated lead ahead of them. Jul 24, 2011
Benten
Denver
 
Benten   Denver
 
This was my first 5.11 onsight, and I am 5'7". No big deal, if you're jumpin' on 11's, it's an easy 11. The clip is shitty but not insecure. Aug 18, 2011