Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Alber, 1999
Page Views: 262 total · 2/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 18, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is located on the Clock Tower, between Butt Luscious and Hair Shirt.

In the various shades of grey for route modification, this route lies on the extreme end of the continuum. The crux consists of big moves over a huge roof on drilled holds, including a shaped jug horn (shared with the route Hair Shirt) that is one of the most blatantly manufactured holds I've ever seen. On a lot of the routes on the Clock Tower, there are holds you wonder about, but seem (and probably are) natural... not this one.

As for physical movement, the climb is worthy of a star or two... a lot of people will like this route. I even thought it was fairly solid for the grade by Boulder Canyon standards, and downright sandbagged for the Clock Tower.

Protection

9 or 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Aeon Aki    
 
This thing would be super classic in the gym; very well-manufactured and burly! Aug 2, 2007
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
If you can look past the bat droppings all over the ground, bat shit all over the start of the route, and blatantly manufactured holds, it's actually quite enjoyable climbing. Pulling the roof move is pretty burly and powerful, especially for the super soft Sport Park Grades. 5.12s at the Sport Park are really 5.10, but this route packs a punch at the roof and is surprisingly pumpy. I'm not gonna lie, I did have fun on this route.... The only way I'm ever gonna climb on it again is to powerwash the whole first half. Bat poo on your hands in no fun, and it smells like 2 rats humping in a wool sock.... Jun 22, 2012
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
Most of climbing is 5.11 & easier. The crux at the lip of the overhang is pretty aggro. I used to have an much easier time repeating Go Dog Go, No Doze, or Hair Shirt (indirect variation) than repeating Jolly Jug. Inflation on the New Economy Cliff in Clear Creek has a huge dyno, & I find it easier to send than Jolly Jug. There is more than one way to do the crux. The dyno method is how I've always done it. There is a good hueco jug to dyno off to a horizontal slot. There is an intermediate pebble. If you over shoot the slot, you will most likely not catch it & fall off. Aug 5, 2017