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Routes in Upper Wall

Beaver Fever S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Beaver Overload S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Belfry, The V10-11 8A PG13
Big Dipper, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Butt Luscious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Go Dog Go S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hair Shirt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hee Haw S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Infa-Goose S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Infa-Red Riding Hood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jolly Jug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leave it to Beaver S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mother Goose S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mutant Overload S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Doze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pump Truck S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Salad Shooter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three Little Pigs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: C. Alber, 1999
Page Views: 245 total · 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is the leftmost bolted line on the upper tier of The Clock Tower. It is fun, juggy, and worth a run if you are in the area. Originally, it was rated 12a (relayed verbally by a BC guidebook author who led me up it), but I think that was perhaps due to lack of cleaning. It requires more power than technique with a good rest. 11- seemed more grounded.

Location

This was the leftmost line on the upper tier of The Clock Tower. It is now the 2nd most left route.

Protection

6 bolts & something for the 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
This route was originally rated .11d not 5.12a & it is not the leftmost bolt line. The leftmost route, called "Ditch Witch" is rated .12a or .12b. Ditch Witch shares the 1st bolt & then climbs the leftmost bolt line. It is essentially Hee Haw revisited with a separate finish to higher anchor, unless you climb the upper part of the route to the left of the bolts (.12b). Chris Alber climbed it on the left. Squeezed & contrived.

As for Hee Haw, it is the second route from the left. I'm sticking to the .11d rating. There is big reach move or dyno off an undercling past the 4th bolt. Then past the 5th bolt, is another move off an undercling with poor feet to make a final reach.

A harder climb than "Animal Magnetism" or its neighbor "Leave It To Beaver" in my opinion. It is powerful for a stretch. Jul 28, 2017
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
5.12a
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
5.12a
Blatantly drilled but surprisingly fun.
I think there may be a reach issue involved wrt grading. I'm 5'6" and have to do a full on, one handed catch, dyno to get to the hold by bolt 4 (nb if bolt 4 is prehung, it can be clipped before making this move, which might be a good idea...). I also found the undercling/reach at bolt 5 needed some left foot finesse, but at least I didn't have to jump! Aug 9, 2018

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