> Boulder Canyon
The Sport Park is a recently developed climbing area in the far end of Boulder Canyon. It is comprised of a bunch of different cliffs that offer tons of quality sport climbing and top-rope climbing. Virtually every sport climb can be set up as a TR by walking around to the top of the cliff. There have been some issues concerning the ethics of the place (many routes have chipped or enhanced holds, others are over bolted), so be aware that it has more of an "outdoor gym" atmosphere than a "wilderness crag" one. The rock quality is good throughout, with routes ranging from easy slabs to overhanging 5.13 power routes. It gets plenty of sun in the afternoons, but it can also be pretty windy at times.
The south face of Surprising Crag is a popular spot, and it's usually in the sun. Better to climb here during cooler weather.
The Clock Tower gets great morning shade and is an excellent destination during hot weather.
It is approximately 12.5 miles up the canyon (look for it up on the left half a mile past Castle Rock), and it is about 2.5 miles down from the town of Nederland. The walls are clearly visible up on the left as you are driving up the canyon. There is a parking pull-out directly below the crags at the end of a guardrail on a right-turning bend in the road. Per usernameremoved
: the Sport Park's (and other crags in the area) parking has been closed off by a guard rail extension. The closest place to park is just further around the corner on the right.
Cross the creek at the hand-line, and head up the dirt road on the other side. If the water is high, there is a tyrolean located a little farther downstream. See the map in the photos. Take a trail branching off to the left and follow it up the hill. Cross a stream and continue up to the aqueduct trail, a flat trail that runs horizontally across the hill below all of the cliffs. It's about 100 yards uphill from the stream.
Head left on the aqueduct trail to get to Owl Prow, Surprising Crag, The Visor, Recovery Room, Forbidden Fruit Crag, and the Sky Cafe.
Head right on the aqueduct trail to get to the Clock Tower.
Overhung Wall and Sport Park Slab lie below Surprising Crag; these can be approached by heading downstream (N) shortly after crossing the creek, then heading uphill to the crags.
Per Bal Rau
: the trailhead is located halfway between mile markers 28 & 29.