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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Rick Leitner, Mary Reidmiller, Heidi Anderson, Chris Alber, 2/16/00
Page Views: 6,842 total · 33/month
Shared By: Barry Gereb on Apr 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

On the right side of the South Face of Surprising Crag, look for bolted, twin hand cracks that lead to a face with a bulge. Jam up the twin hand cracks either placing your own gear or clipping bolts, step left from a ledge onto the face, and jug haul to the top.

Protection

6 [7] bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first half of the climb, a hand and fist jam crack can be led with gear or with 3 quickdraws.

Photos

Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
We climbed about 10 routes on the cliff, and this was one of the better lines. Aug 21, 2017
Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain
Daniel Joder   Barcelona, Spain
Yes, seven bolts. May 6, 2016
John Dubya
  5.8
John Dubya  
  5.8
I thought this was challenging for the grade but super fun with some really cool features. The guidebook lists this as having 5 bolts, and I think it's listed here as 6, but I remember 7 bolts? Aug 9, 2012
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.7
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.7
Probably the best line on the cliff. Sustained, fun moves throughout. Good first lead, as you can practice nut and cam placement. Don't expect to climb it on a busy weekend. Step left out onto the face ASAP after the double crack/corner ends for the most exciting line. Jun 25, 2010
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Gave this one three stars if led on gear.

Beta:

Used a No.4 to protect the first move into the crack, then a large stopper a little higher up. Two small but trucker stoppers in the left seam protect the crux, which I thought was exiting the hand crack. Head right, place a No. 2 then step up to the roof and place a small cam or two for the easy traverse back left. Exit the roof and it's all good. Very satisfying. Sep 1, 2008
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
A good route. Makes a fun lead with some interesting moves. Oct 8, 2004
This entire climb can be easily and safely led using gear. After the fun handcrack start, step right and get under the roof. Place a cam and move left to turn the roof and arrive at the anchors. Mike. Apr 21, 2003
One of the better routes on Surprising Crag - clean, uncontrived, actually well-bolted (not too over-bolted and they aren't in stupid places), and it might even be 5.8 Jun 4, 2002

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