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Routes in West Face

Amber T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
American Beauty S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Curve of Binding Energy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Furious Howard Brown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Impeachara S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mercy Drilling T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
North Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Fisherman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shakedown Street S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Goats S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wise Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The West Face of Surprising Crag has some of the earliest routes on the rock. Many of these older routes are hard, scary, and infrequently climbed. There are a few modern sport routes here, too, but most of them are quite difficult. Other than the route "The Other One", a fun route up the prow at the right end of the West Face, this area sees little traffic.

A number of the scary trad routes have not yet been added to the MountainProject.com database, but will be included in the list below.

Routes from left to right:

A. Northwest Passage, 8, 1p, 40', gear.
B. Wise Crack, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Pocket Fisherman, 11, 1p, 65', bolts.
D. Curve of Binding Energy, 12, 1p, bolts.
E. Entrapment, 10+ X, 1p, gear.
F. Heart Like a Wheel 10- X, 1p, gear.
G. Space Goats, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.
H. Furious Howard Brown, 12-, 1p, bolts.
I. Buried Alive 10+ R/X, 1p, gear.
J. Power Line 11+ R-, 1p, gear.
K. Power Line Pup 11 R-, 1p, gear.
L. American Beauty, 12, 1p, 70', bolts.
M. Amber, 11+ PG-13, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
N. Mercy Drilling, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
O. North Crack, 8+, 1p, 60', gear. LFD.
P. Impeachara, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
Q. Shakedown Street, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
R. The Other One, 11-, 1p, bolts. Right-hand prow.

Getting There

Follow the trail to Surprising Crag, then walk left and around the corner. The first route you get to is The Other One.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 189
The Other One
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 4
Amber
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 12
Space Goats
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Furious Howard Brown
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 74
Mercy Drilling
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 38
American Beauty
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Other One
 189
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Amber
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Space Goats
 12
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Furious Howard Brown
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mercy Drilling
 74
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
American Beauty
 38
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Face »

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