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Routes in West Face

Amber T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
American Beauty S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Curve of Binding Energy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Furious Howard Brown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Impeachara S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mercy Drilling T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
North Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Fisherman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shakedown Street S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Goats S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wise Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Rolofson & Alber
Page Views: 2,942 total, 16/month
Shared By: Dan Levison on Aug 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Located on Sport Park's Surprising Crag (west side), American Beauty ascends a vertical wall for roughly 60/70 feet. The climbing involves clean rock on mostly lay back flakes until one is faced with the final crux moves. It's not exactly certain whether the first ascenionist intended for the line to go straight up or utilize the crack to the left to get established on the well-protected crux. Either way, a balancy set of moves to a better holds up high makes for a great climb. Probably more like 12b -- the guidebook gives it 12c.

Protection

7 bolts (half inch Rawl 5-piece w/ Fixe hangers); Fixe SS ring anchors.

Photos

NWNINJA
Nederland, CO
  5.12b
NWNINJA   Nederland, CO
  5.12b
Incredible line! Perfect holds, nice clipping stances, great movement, and a good rest before the tricky crux at the end. Classic! Aug 5, 2017
Henry Lester
Boulder, CO
Henry Lester   Boulder, CO
Here is alternative short person beta for the crux at the top. Up the crack, reach right to an edge, bridge right foot to dish. Left hand to a small face hold, right hand to the outside edge (to the right of the seam), then left hand to the edge that the right hand was on. Then you are standing on the right foot, and the rest is reasonable. I think it is probably 12a; mostly it was hard to figure out and what seemed like reasonable alternatives didn't work for me. Apr 2, 2017
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12c
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12c
Crux is very height-dependent. For reference, I'm 5'7" with 0 ape-index. I tried going straight up from the pocket like Mark Rolofson said, but it doesn't matter how high I smear, I'm about an inch or two away from the shallow seam right of the bolt line. If I use the finger crack on the left, I can't use the good finger lock higher up, I have to keep my hand lower in the right-most part of the crack, in order to get two pads on the very bottom of the shallow seam (I'm fully extended at this point with not an inch to spare). From there, it's a very chin-to-the-rock balancy move to transition from the left hand crack to the right hand seam. Anyone with less than my wingspan will not be able to reach the seam from the left finger crack and will have to work out some pretty hard beta (hand-foot match in the pocket, like mentioned above?). Jan 6, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
I agree with the above comment that Chris makes. If this route were in Eldo or a more "respectable" crag in BoCan, it would be 4-stars and highly sought after. I hadn't been to the Sport Park in years and figured I'd go and check it out again just for the hell of it. I'm glad I did, because my eye was immediately draw to this line, and I'm also a sucker for Grateful Dead references! So yes, say what you will about the sport park, but this is a quality line on BOMBER rock (aside from the first 10' maybe) with great climbing and a devious crux sequence. Wharf Factor down the hill is a great pitch as well. Apr 6, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great route with a brilliant crux sequence that is super fun. I have done a lot of routes at Sport Park, and this is one of the best. The stone is gorgeous! Do it.... Jun 5, 2012
Mark Rolofson
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c
As the first ascentionist of this 100% natural line, the route goes straight up the face. The crack on "PowerLine Pup" is off limits for making the moves even though I often use it to rest while standing on the horizontal break. Here is the beta. Left hand goes in the shallow, large pocket. Right hand on a small edge. Feet are on the good horizontal break to start. Bring the right foot up to a good edge one foot above the break. Left foot on a tiny edge. Reach a fingertip lock in the bottom of a shallow seam. Sorry, shortie, this route is not for you. Left foot goes up again onto a tiny edge that curves up left. Stand on this foot and bring the right foot into the shallow pocket on top of or right of your fingers. Pull your fingers out of way and reach a good fingertip lieback. Stand up and clip last bolt. Finishing is easier with a moderate 5.11 move. I have done this route many times and so has my first ascent partner, Chris Alber. In fact, I do it about twice a year. Often it is easy, but sometimes I can't do it and it is due to the shoes I am wearing. The tiny left foothold requires a tight shoes with a square edge. Sloppy shoes and worn out edges don't work. The short climber method is to use the crack on "Powerline Pup" and move right. It is still 5.12b, but it is definitely easier than the intended line. Aug 6, 2010
Pinklebear  
 
Perfect rock, cool laybacking down low, sneaky sequence up high. Do it to it! A lovely climb. Jul 11, 2010
Chris Archer
  5.12b
Chris Archer  
  5.12b
This is an excellent route. How ironic that a lengthy discussion on chipping should occur in relation to this route, which is not chipped. If this climb were located on a less controversial crag it would be highly regarded and quite popular. Jun 30, 2008
Joe Collins  
 
Pretty silly that the chipping/overbolted discussion is going on for this particular route which is neither chipped, nor overbolted.

Since Chris asked for beta, here's mine: Very technical. At the 2nd to last bolt, right hand in the pod, left hand in the highest good fingerlock in the crack out left. Stem left as high as possible and right hand/foot match in the pod. Bring right hand up to slopey layaway near the seam (the best part has a tiny thumb catch). Bring left hand up higher to a thin flaring part of the left crack, then bump left foot up higher. At this point you are pretty stretched out. Crank off the right layaway and pull your weight over your right foot and grab a thin crimp above your head with your left. Move with the right to the good part of the seam and clip the last bolt.

For my length this felt like mid-12, but if you can't reach from the left crack this would be WAY harder, involving moving directly up from the pod to the seam with no feet. Very height dependent, and one of those routes that it doesn't make sense to give a letter grade. Oct 11, 2004
Geez, it's so good to know Matt and Bob are pals. Oct 4, 2004
Sorry Matt, Andrew, Rich, Nate, etc. I apologize for going off, and I'll try to clarify myself better in the future.

The route American Beauty is difficult, beautiful and (I think) natural. Chris asked for beta and instead got grief from people who hadn't done the route. Not all routes are chipped, overrated, etc. at the sport park, and climbers are not guilty just for having fun there. I don't support chipping and I hope that chipping is discontinued, as Bob D. thinks has happened. Mar 2, 2003
Bob, I must admit that I completely agree with your view of Rifle. I have climbed there quite a bit and think its completely over-rated. And the way some of the routes were manufactured is quite ridiculous! I suppose people got all psyched on Rifle because it was a limestone crag right here in Colorado!

But I have climbed there and enjoyed some of the better routes. I would be bummed if someone slammed me as a climber just because I climbed at Rifle where some of the routes are manufactured. In the same way its not fair to slam people who climb at the Sport Park. But I think its fair to question the way the area has been developed just as its fair to question other areas such as Rifle.

Hey everyone, I appreciate the forum here and am really psyched when we can all have a discussion about topics that mean a lot to us without resorting to childish name-calling.

Take care. Mar 1, 2003
Matt, I agree with you that its important to slam the issue and not the people. But I don't think you should apologize for expressing your view on the Sport Park and other areas like it. In fact I think you'll find that a high number of climbers agree with you. Lets face it...the Sport Park is seen as sort of a joke by many people in the climbing world. Hey I could care less if people want to go climb there...but the people who developed it should have been prepared for the fall-out that this sort of developement on public land would bring.

Its too bad that they were not a little more responsible...I think with some care and forethought the Sport Park could have been another fine little crag in Boulder Canyon.Instead it was turned into an over-bolted joke of a climbing area where you can go to pad your already inflated climbing ego....sort of like we used to do in the climbing gym scene...now we can go outside and get the same effect! Hey I'm not slamming the people who enjoy climbing there...

Chris said it best...the Sport Park is in fact "overbolted/overrated."

Question to Matt and anyone else who has any beta. Has there been any fall-out from the Land Management on this issue??? Mar 1, 2003
12c Sport Park....11d in the real world? Mar 1, 2003
No need to apologize Chris. These guys (Rich, Matt, Nate, Andrew) are the same guys who jumped you while trick or treating (in second grade) and stole your candy. They think they are funny. . . Mar 1, 2003
Hey...I agree. And, Nate, I hope I was not rude to you specifically. If so, apologies. I agree wholeheartedly with what Matt is saying, but I felt the need to reply to comments I (whether directly or not) received. I was simply asking about some beta, and got bashed(stereotyped) in doing so. I climb at places like the industrial wall/secret crags, and shelf road (older climbs), where overbolting etc. are not issues. I do not support areas like the sport park, but areas like shelf where there are not such debates as this area is not 'known' for overbolting. I just stated that rockclimbing is fun, no matter where I am doing it. I wouldn't know the first thing about chipping. My comment was meant to address the petty issue of an average climber (me) asking a simple beta question which happened to be at a very controversial area, and getting stereotyped as a chump, or chipper or whatev. That was silly. Have fun! Feb 27, 2003
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Thanks for the idea Chris! I can't believe I never thought of egging cars in the sport park. Off to King Soopers... Feb 27, 2003
The sport park has a reputation of having lots of chipped routes and what would that do?................attract climbers that tend to chip. I am not pointing any fingers at anyone. I am not saying that YOU chip. There are a lot of clean, honest people out there but the ones that are chipping are giving climbers that climb @ the sport park like yourself a bad name. No harm meant in that comment. To me, overbolting depletes routes of their natural beauty, especially cracks. Feb 27, 2003
Wow...you guys sure are witty. I love to get dogged by people I don't even know!!Thanks Nate! Thanks Rich! True, it is at the sport park, but if you guys are too blind to see a beautiful line (whether it be 'overbolted/overrated' or not) then I'll have to see what lines you guys are doing. I know the sport park gets a lot of bad press, but I for one think that rock is rock. Period. It's not my favorite place to climb (maybe climbed there 3 times), but the sport park does hold some awesome lines. It's too bad so many people are missing what climbing is about..fun. Personal fun, no matter how gained. So, if I climb at the sport park I am now labeled a chump or something. I'm surprised my car didn't get egged the last time I was there. If this is what climbing is coming too....inflated egos, dogging people you don't know on forums, constant debates on ratings and chipping.... I think I'll pick up bowling. Feb 27, 2003
Good one. Sad to say, most would listen. Feb 26, 2003
It is tricky. I suggest bringing your drill and making your own holds. That way more folks can figure it out, and the more people that do it, the better it is. Dec 17, 2002
Any beta please? Me and my buddy tried this thing yesterday, and could not figure it out at 12c?? Dec 16, 2002