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Routes in West Face

Amber T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
American Beauty S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Curve of Binding Energy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Furious Howard Brown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Impeachara S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mercy Drilling T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
North Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Fisherman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shakedown Street S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Goats S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wise Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 691 total · 9/month
Shared By: JFM on Mar 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Edit]

Per D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon guidebook, this is the deep crack in the dihedral, just right of Mercy Drilling.

Either smush into the crack or do dihedral moves.

The crux was edging left onto the face at the end to reach the anchors for Mercy Drilling. Moving out is committing. Overall, there are good rests & several "what next?" spots for a 5.8 leader.

Location [Edit]

Walk around the corner from Choss Temple Pilots and find the big, shady dihedral & crack.

Lower/rap off anchors.

Protection [Edit]

This takes gear from fingertips to fist. Medium stoppers could be useful.

Use Mercy Drilling's bolted anchors with rap rings (to the left of the little cave at the top of the route).

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