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Routes in West Face

Amber T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
American Beauty S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Curve of Binding Energy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Furious Howard Brown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Impeachara S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mercy Drilling T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
North Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Fisherman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shakedown Street S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Goats S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wise Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 2,279 total, 12/month
Shared By: Elijah Flenner on Nov 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route starts under a roof right in front of a tree on the West Face of Surprising Crag. There is one bolt getting to the roof, and one bolt on the roof. Turn the roof on jugs, then continue up the face passing three distinct hard sections with no hands rests in between. The climbing is great, and would get three stars if the route did not have all the no hands rests. Basically four boulder problems in a row. The last hard section can be skipped by going left and using the bolts on Space Goats. Sport Park gets a lot of bad press, but this is a great, all natural route.

Protection

10 bolts and 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.12a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a/b
Definitely one of the best climbs at Sport Park with lots of interesting climbing on great rock. The roof is the unavoidable gymnastic crux, but it is far from over on the face above the lip. The shallow seam & vertical face above the roof is tricky & can feel very insecure. Above the 5th bolt the climbing eases of with relaxing rests on small ledges. A 5.10 section moves right & up to great pocket in a horizontal break. The upper crux past the 8th bolt is quite tricky with poor smears & should not be missed. It can be avoided by moving left onto Space Goats & then stepping back right. However, the upper crux is not contrived & takes the direct independent line. These crux moves begin with a short steep slab leading into a left-facing corner. Apr 26, 2017