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Routes in West Face

Amber T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
American Beauty S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Curve of Binding Energy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Furious Howard Brown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Impeachara S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mercy Drilling T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
North Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Fisherman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shakedown Street S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Goats S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wise Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson belayed by Zack Slinskey on March 18, 2017
Page Views: 325 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Mar 18, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Ascend the left side of the north face. Begin in the same place as Mercy Drilling, but before its 1st bolt, step right onto the north face & the 1st bolt of Impeachara. I avoid the blocky ledge to the right to be safe. Continue up moderate climbing (5.9) to a good ledge, to lay down on, at the 6th bolt. A .10a move leads to a good jug & the last bolt.

Above here, the face turns to an overhang. The crux is getting to jugs at the lip of overhang & just above the anchor. Pulling onto the summit will earn you bonus points. This crux involves a long reach off an undercling hold. It is definitely height-dependent.

I bolted this line in August 2015, climbed it to the undercling, & grabbed the anchor. I had injured my left shoulder in July 2015, & that prevented me from working this powerful crux finish. Up to the crux, it's a great warm-up. After watching the video link below, I returned & sent the route. Even though powerful, it's more about discovering the subtle beta.…


This ascends the north-facing wall, 15 feet left of Shakedown Street & right of the North Crack & Mercy Drilling.


7 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.


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Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Most of this route is just OK, although more solid and cleaner than it looks. The flake between bolts 2 and 3, which seems hollow from below, was rock solid when I tugged on it while lowering.

The last move, though, is great! Maybe somewhat reach-dependent, but I'm 5'6" +1 ape, and I can hit the finishing jug, just couldn't convince my shoulder that hanging on was a good idea, but I enjoyed it enough to plan on heading back. Plus it keeps the shade later than the rest of the wall. Sadly, I suspect many will clip the chains from below and skip the finish to the lip and miss the very best part of this climb. May 26, 2018

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