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Routes in West Face

Amber T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
American Beauty S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Curve of Binding Energy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Furious Howard Brown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Impeachara S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mercy Drilling T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
North Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Fisherman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shakedown Street S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Goats S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wise Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson belayed by Zack Slinskey on March 18, 2017
Page Views: 205 total, 25/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Mar 18, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Ascend the left side of the north face. Begin in the same place as Mercy Drilling, but before its 1st bolt, step right onto the north face & the 1st bolt of Impeachara. I avoid the blocky ledge to the right to be safe. Continue up moderate climbing (5.9) to a good ledge, to lay down on, at the 6th bolt. A .10a move leads to a good jug & the last bolt.

Above here, the face turns to an overhang. The crux is getting to jugs at the lip of overhang & just above the anchor. Pulling onto the summit will earn you bonus points. This crux involves a long reach off an undercling hold. It is definitely height-dependent.

I bolted this line in August 2015, climbed it to the undercling, & grabbed the anchor. I had injured my left shoulder in July 2015, & that prevented me from working this powerful crux finish. Up to the crux, it's a great warm-up. After watching the video link below, I returned & sent the route. Even though powerful, it's more about discovering the subtle beta.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXUlhT3-r0c

Location

This ascends the north-facing wall, 15 feet left of Shakedown Street & right of the North Crack & Mercy Drilling.

Protection

7 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

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