Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson belayed by Zack Slinskey on March 18, 2017
Page Views: 346 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Mar 18, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Ascend the left side of the north face. Begin in the same place as Mercy Drilling, but before its 1st bolt, step right onto the north face & the 1st bolt of Impeachara. I avoid the blocky ledge to the right to be safe. Continue up moderate climbing (5.9) to a good ledge, to lay down on, at the 6th bolt. A .10a move leads to a good jug & the last bolt.

Above here, the face turns to an overhang. The crux is getting to jugs at the lip of overhang & just above the anchor. Pulling onto the summit will earn you bonus points. This crux involves a long reach off an undercling hold. It is definitely height-dependent.

I bolted this line in August 2015, climbed it to the undercling, & grabbed the anchor. I had injured my left shoulder in July 2015, & that prevented me from working this powerful crux finish. Up to the crux, it's a great warm-up. After watching the video link below, I returned & sent the route. Even though powerful, it's more about discovering the subtle beta.

youtube.com/watch?v=QXUlhT3…

Location

This ascends the north-facing wall, 15 feet left of Shakedown Street & right of the North Crack & Mercy Drilling.

Protection

7 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Most of this route is just OK, although more solid and cleaner than it looks. The flake between bolts 2 and 3, which seems hollow from below, was rock solid when I tugged on it while lowering.

The last move, though, is great! Maybe somewhat reach-dependent, but I'm 5'6" +1 ape, and I can hit the finishing jug, just couldn't convince my shoulder that hanging on was a good idea, but I enjoyed it enough to plan on heading back. Plus it keeps the shade later than the rest of the wall. Sadly, I suspect many will clip the chains from below and skip the finish to the lip and miss the very best part of this climb. May 26, 2018