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Routes in West Face

Amber T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
American Beauty S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Curve of Binding Energy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Furious Howard Brown S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Impeachara S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Mercy Drilling T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
North Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northwest Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Fisherman S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shakedown Street S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Space Goats S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Wise Crack S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 4,726 total, 24/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The Other One fires up the prow of the Surprising Crag. It's the rightmost route on the West Face, just around the arete left of Choss Temple Pilots.

Jug haul to a good stance and high clip just before the crux. A clean, left-facing corner leading to a crisp edge and a pair of friction pads kicks up an interesting crux. Dust it with a high step. A slab to the anchors finishes the thing.

This has good rock and fun moves, and none of the holds appeared to be manufactured.

Protection

Eight draws and a rope.
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Cara Hubbell   Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Ahh, that friction crux! A tiny right foot was the key on this one. I tried about 8 times and failed before finding that foot and completing the move. Super fun route! Nov 5, 2017
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
I liked the climbing on the lower section with slightly overhanging moves on juggy holds at about 9+ to one harder move at the crux. It's a fun one. Aug 21, 2017
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Enjoyable, to say the least. After some beta, I found the moves weren't too outrageous. The crux is REALLY tricky if you don't know where that crimp is. I tried using the sloper to the right and felt like pulling my hair out. Sturdy holds, regardless of possible chipping. Aug 31, 2010
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.11a
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.11a
That other route to the left is Shakedown Street, 12.c, according to this source. The Other One is a quality climb in great position. We got some incredible shots in profile with massive, towering cumulus above and the colors of the rock really popping. I'll post as soon as I get my camera back. The crux moves took me some figuring out. Some guy who was free-soloing 8s tried to give me the beta, but I tuned him out. For what it's worth, a guy I saw flash some 11d to the left, one of the roof routes, had a harder time on this climb. I would concur that this is the best route on Surprising Slab. Aug 28, 2010
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
My honest opinion was the route was 10 with a single 11a move pulling the last bulge. Fun stuff. Sep 26, 2009
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Yeah, what IS that other route rated? Harder than I usually try, but it seemed so inviting after The Other One. I got the last clip and went nowhere. I tried going straight up and failed miserably. (My partner deviously stepped up on the arete and crawled onto the right face and finished.) Straight up "power crimping," wide feet on the overhanging wall and using the high sloper on the face got me nowhere. (Neither did the sketchy slapping along the arete.) It would be nice to know what my limit was. Sep 20, 2009
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.10d
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.10d
You don't think that right hand crimp was chipped? Aug 15, 2007
Nathan Gray  
 
I pulled the last roof with a little right hand crimp and reached up to a high sloping left hand. This felt harder than 10c...perhaps I botched the beta? I would agree there was NO other climbing on the route harder than 10a, but what the crap, is there an easier way to pull onto that slab? Mar 24, 2007
Erik L Ahrn_  
 
Probably my favorite route in the Sport Park.... Oct 27, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
After getting rained/hailed on at Castle Rock on Sunday then walking up to the choss at Mountain Rose crag with threatening rain again, I and my partner decided to go walk up to sport park at dusk and check the place out & see what all of the noise is about. We went with no guide, so we didn't know what routes we might try or what kind of chip & glue we might see. In the fading light (this route being done on a cloudy night at 8:45PM on May 18, the sun having set 15-20 min ago) I wound up for this route.When I was done, I called it 5.10c. I am guessing, but the point is that the route is seriously over-graded.On the bright side, the holds were all natural (or at least what I could see in that light- without the chalk on them, they would have been exceptionally hard to find). The crux was pulling over the round bulge onto slabby holds and I was relieved not to have found a deep finger pocket there- one which would have changed the climb totally.The line was reasonably bolted and due to it's position on the arete/end of the buttress was not seemingly crowded. If all of the lines at the Sport Park had been done in this fashion, nobody would bother bagging on the place for anything more than the blatant over-rating of the climbs.

5.10c in the dark. This is not an exaggeration- it's how I did the route. May 19, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
One of the only climbs that I know I'm going to miss about Sport Park. I don't really think the first couple of moves are .10d, but I think this is actually an 11a move over the top roof. Sep 6, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
Touche! While I will never have the steady mind control of our head-pointing masters, even I am committed to the idea that part of what we do is to play a mental game. My recent visit to the Sport Park also uncovered very little need for those superfluous synapses. Nov 14, 2001
But would it be categorically unfair to dismiss the area as offensive because it's egregiously over-bolted? Nov 14, 2001