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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Rick Leitner, Chris Alber, Sept. 1998
Page Views: 6,039 total, 31/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 24, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


250 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Locate this on the south face of Surprising Crag. Find this route by locating the obvious chimney and count 3 bolt lines to the left, just right of the arete.

Climb past the first 2 bolts (careful of loose rocks, but not bad) and then into a small, right-facing dihedral. Go straight up from here. It is a good warm-up, even at 5.8.

Protection

6 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
We saw a ton of chalk on the big flake to the right, but motoring up just left of the bolt line had some nice crimps. Felt more challenging than Monkey Bob or The Touch. Can reach over and set up a toprope on the .11- to the left from the anchors. Aug 21, 2017
SavageMarmot
Nederland, CO
SavageMarmot   Nederland, CO
A fun TR variation goes left up the very edge of the arete. Pumpy 5.9 on slopers and crimps. May 31, 2013
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.8+
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.8+
Also skipped the last bolt, didn't make much sense to me where it was. The climb was just so-so, but the exposure on the top half was pretty cool. Jun 27, 2010
Ryan Flynn
Maple Valley, WA
  5.8
Ryan Flynn   Maple Valley, WA
  5.8
Had fun on this route.

Last bolt is poorly placed. Skipped it, and it seemed more logical just to go for the anchors. May 19, 2010
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.8
This isn't a bad route, except that the last bolt is very poorly placed. I got the impression that the bolter was trying to force the route onto the face. Aug 21, 2007
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
  5.8+
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
  5.8+
The crux is a high stepping reachy thing if you follow the bolts. The shorter people I was with found it easier to go left where the step isn't as high. Oct 3, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
For all the negativity surrounding the Sport Park, I enjoyed the climb. A nice route with interesting moves and exposure. 5.8 seemed about right. Jul 29, 2005
?????  
The last comment is why the Sport Park is the best climbing in front range...bolted cracks...sick...z-clipping off of ledges...the sickest...the only part that they are leaving out is that route was originally rated 13a because some wanker really wanted to "climb 13" so they put their own up. Jun 22, 2005
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
  5.8+
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
  5.8+
The bolts on this route were quite badly placed. Had to clip the second one while in the middle of a jam and got my rope all twisted up. The third bolt is useless. By the time you can clip it, you're already standing on the ledge, and reaching the 4th bolt is no problem from that position.

Getting over the roof is the crux. If you're tall, just grab a huge jug off to the right, no footwork required. Jun 21, 2005
It climbs more like a 5.9. Jul 22, 2002
TBD
TBD  
Fun climb, I'd tack on another star. May 14, 2002