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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Rick Leitner, February 2000
Page Views: 3,086 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Double Down is on the right side of south face of Surprising Crag, just left of Frictionary.

Climb a steep face past two bolts to a ledge. Angle up right to a second steep face, which can be climbed either left (5.9) or right (5.7) of the bolt line.

The crux is a thin face move past the first bolt; easier if you're tall. This move can be bypassed by climbing the corner to the right then stepping back left at the second bolt.

The entire route can be done as a 5.7 by climbing the corner right of the initial face and climbing the crack right of the upper face.


6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
A waste of good hardware. This is one of the most contrived routes in the park, and the bolts spoil the natural corner right next to it.

It felt like 5.8 without using the corner. I really wish people would think more carefully before bolting right next to natural lines. Not every square inch of rock needs a bolt. Aug 21, 2007
Adam Kagy
Victor, ID
Adam Kagy   Victor, ID
It's a shame that this was bolted. A prime example of the over bolting done at sport park...Other than that it's easily protected all the way to the anchors. Makes a nice first trad lead. Jun 19, 2008
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
Did the 7 crack variation with good gear all the way. Good beginner gear route. Sep 1, 2008
Bracken Christensen
Boulder, CO
Bracken Christensen   Boulder, CO
By being bolted, you get to do one interesting face move at the start (I'm short, so getting to the good hands was a bit tenuous). After that, the route is uninteresting. Sep 3, 2009
TJ Binkley
Denver Co
TJ Binkley   Denver Co
Without the bolts up the face, the climb is less than start if you can "suffer" through the bolts. Sep 21, 2010
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
Silly route, but the upper bolted face next to two cracks was fun, or at least all 15ft of it. Aug 21, 2017
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
A link-up climbing the bottom of this route then finishing up on Dirty Dave's above the ledge improves the experience. Apr 22, 2018

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