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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 315 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start by either clipping a bolt 6 feet off the ground over a small roof, or climb to the ledge and traverse left to clip the 2nd of 6 bolts. Continue on easy ground to the 4th bolt, and locate a small undercling and shallow, right hand pocket. Crank through the undercling with small feet to reach the lip, and climb to the anchors. This has a nice 2 move crux on a smooth slab.

Protection

6 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is located on the "Surprising Crag - South Face". Find this route by locating the obvious laybacking flake above a little roof. This route is the route to the left of this flake.

Photos

Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
5.11c
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
5.11c
I think this route is going to be really hard for folks shorter and with less reach than me. (5'6" +1 ape).

As for on/off, IMHO avoiding the two small crimps on the bolt line up to the terrible dish on the right and the undercling crimp on the left, using only feet on the face? makes an ascent pretty pointless. May 23, 2016
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
Question on what's on/off: does the intended line ignore the stemming possibilities off to the right, along with the pocket on the far right? That is to say, does one go off the two small crimps on the bolt line up to the terrible dish on the right and the undercling crimp on the left, using only feet on the face? Nov 9, 2014
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.11d
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Definitely a hard move due to the nearly non-existent feet. Big moves at the crux and strong fingers are a must. Very easy before and after that though. Sep 7, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
Good climb, hard crux. I thought this route was a little harder than the roof/layback to the right of it......little more thought provoking and also hard not to bail out to the right or left to easier terrain. Fun climb, I would say the crux move is .11d Apr 28, 2007
Erik L Ahrn_
  5.11c
Erik L Ahrn_  
  5.11c
Fun crux... pretty hard I thought! Oct 27, 2003