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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Alber, Rick Leitner, 2000
Page Views: 3,725 total, 19/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Jan 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a particularly poorly bolted route on the South Face of Surprising Crag - 3 routes right of Choss Temple Pilots and just right of the dihedral/offwidth. Bolt placement (first bolt 15-20 feet up a slab and a looong reach from a stance, with the second bolt 2 feet above it) makes an othewise good route lame.

Protection

Six draws.
Seemed harder than the supposedly 5.9+ climb to its right. The layback at the top is fairly committing if you go that way, though a slightly easier alternative is to head left and make use of the big crack in the corner. Sep 14, 2014
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.9
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
  5.9
About a dozen different ways to do this route and all of them fun and exciting. Great warm-up for the area! Apr 13, 2014
Bawdy B
Denver, CO
Bawdy B   Denver, CO
It is a little run out to the first bolt, but at least you have some rope in the system by the time you clip it?

This route can be made more difficult if you jam the left crack (not the dihedral). Apr 12, 2014
dseltzer
Boulder, CO
 
dseltzer   Boulder, CO
 
A fun route thats unfortunately just horribly bolted. Oct 24, 2011
Alan Butler
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Alan Butler   Boulder, CO
  5.9
In my opinion, the first bolt was not too exposed. I would have liked it down several feet, but it did not have me extremely nervous. Just my two cents... otherwise it was a very fun climb. Apr 12, 2010
keith story
Boulder, CO
 
keith story   Boulder, CO
 
Fun climb, and a good work out if you work up the second and third bolt as a compression. Also, on the last crack I stemmed off the chimney to the left, which may be off route.

Loved the runout at the start. Aug 25, 2009
Kevin Cossel
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Kevin Cossel   Boulder, CO
  5.9
The distance before the first bolt can be protected with a small to medium stopper. Other than that a good climb with a very fun layback crack near the top. Aug 23, 2009
Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
  5.9 PG13
Led this w/ Aliens and med./large stoppers along with clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Makes a good mixed route if you brought your rack. Aug 30, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.9
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.9
As others have said, the climbing is really fun, but the equipper was on crack. Aug 10, 2008
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted. Oct 26, 2007
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.9+
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.9+
Beside the bolts, I thought this climb was pretty fun. Loved the mixed holds and the crack near the chains. Aug 15, 2007