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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jim Erickson and Pat Ament, 1970
Page Views: 2,705 total, 18/month
Shared By: Cody Munger on Oct 1, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

When you first come to Surprising Crag via the main trail, this is the obvious crack to the left. It's located between the two routes The Fix and Chasing Sticks, and shares many of the same holds as these two routes.

This is done in two parts. The first is clearing a steep jam crack by stemming out on to the two adjacent routes. The second part is squeezing the annoying chimney above the jam crack.

Beware of loose holds. I pulled off a few pebbles while struggling in this slot for a while. The chimney itself is kind of blank and requires a solid wedge. My beginner wasn't able to do it and ended up using one butt cheek on the chimney and her right limbs on the final crack of the top of Chasing Sticks.

This route shares the anchor with Chasing Sticks.

Protection

Mostly big cams and stopper. Good pro all the way up. Rack up to a #4 Camalot.

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