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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Rick Leitner, 2000
Page Views: 423 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is located on the "Surprising Crag - South Face". Locate the route 'The Touch' and find the route to its immediate left. An obvious, small roof and layback flake are apparent from the ground. Climb to the ledge (unprotected) and clip the first 2 bolts before moving over the roof, layback the flake and get some high feet to crank the roof. From here, climb past 3 more bolts to the anchors (5.9). It is a nice route, although the difficulty doesn't last long (3 seconds...). The grade is also a little high perhaps more like 11b/c ??

Protection

6 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
Josh LaMar
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Josh LaMar   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Beta? The left foot jib is so tiny. This might be a shoe-dependent route. Has anyone tried it with a high, far left foot dropknee? Nov 11, 2017
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
One move wonder over the small overhang easier climbing before and after. Aug 21, 2017
Pat Kelly
Boulder, CO
Pat Kelly   Boulder, CO
Totally reach dependent, this felt like 10+ for me...I do NOT onsight 11s this easily. Jan 3, 2012
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
Easy climbing with one tough move, 11b. Dec 1, 2009
Clint Ballard
Greeley, CO
  5.11c
Clint Ballard   Greeley, CO
  5.11c
You people make me laugh, come on 11-/11a? Aug 22, 2008
I climbed this a couple years ago, and I only rarely climb 11a. Apr 8, 2005
Fun climb! Who cares if you think it's overrated! Jul 17, 2003
JVonD
Longmont, CO
JVonD   Longmont, CO
I climbed it, and I can't climb 5.12. The ratings in the whole area seemed off a little. Probably 5.11-. May 5, 2003
The flake is a pretty sweet move. Probably not a 5.12a though. Sep 4, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Jeff, we jumped on this 11/12/01 and I thought it was 5.11d for the squeeze needed to get the right foot in place. Nov 13, 2001