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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Rick Leitner, Gary Deal, 1/2/00
Page Views: 6,125 total, 30/month
Shared By: Barry Gereb on Apr 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


141 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Locate this climb by looking for the furthest right, bolted line on the south face of surprising crag. Scramble up to the base of the arete and friction your way up a crumbly slab, enjoy a few moves on the arete and continue to the anchors that are above and right.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This could easily be set up as a toprope as the anchors are far back from the edge. Bring some slings to extend your rope over the edge.
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
  5.9
Cara Hubbell   Arvada, CO
  5.9
The friction move at the crux (third bolt) was a lot harder than 5.7, I thought. One of my teammates is 6'4" with a +2 and had no trouble (he also leads 5.11c). I'm 5'8 with a -2 and really struggled. Maybe I'm just too scared of a leader? Maybe the move would have been easier for me on TR? For those of your considering this as a first lead, make sure you have excellent slab technique... or be 6'6". Nov 5, 2017
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Fun warm-up, the arete seemed easier than further right. Aug 21, 2017
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
I agree with Paul. (BETA) The arete has steeper more committing moves, but if you go right, you end up in the blank friction zone. Felt like a pretty solid 5.7 even as short as it is. Aug 26, 2013
Sterling
Denver, Co.
Sterling   Denver, Co.
Frictionary was my second climb ever. I really dug that jazz. It was a great start, then half way up it becomes smear city, but all around good. I'll be returning.
Sterling- May 24, 2011
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.6
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.6
Really fun route, for what it is. Stay on the arete for the best line. People sometimes put down the climbing here, but I really like the rock quality. Jun 25, 2010
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.6
My girlfriend and I decided to try this place out today. We did about a half dozen of the moderates, up to mid 5.10, and thought this was the best route of all of them. The route follows an obvious, uncontrived path, and it is bolted intelligently. The moves are also very fun. Aug 21, 2007
Rob Migliore
  5.7
Rob Migliore  
  5.7
Good beginning lead, but you have to trust your feet as there aren't as many hand holds on the slab. Would like to get back to sport park for some ot the good moderate routes. Jun 25, 2004
mary  
This is probably the easiest sport lead in the Canyon (that I know about anyhow). It is perfect to build confidence and if you want to make it more interesting you can stay on the face instead of going left around the arrete. Jul 11, 2003
I would strongly recommend this climb for those very new to sport climbing. An easy climb, all of the bolts are easy to clip, and a great view from the top. This was my first sport route, so I will always have fond memories of it. Aug 1, 2002