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Routes in South Face

Chasing Sticks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Choss Temple Pilots S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Down S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dutch Oven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fix, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frictionary S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hood Surfing In Socks S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killer Fish Taco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Bob S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Platinum Curl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
South Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vitamin V S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wavy Gravy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dave Lindsey and Rick Leitner, February 2000
Page Views: 3,994 total · 19/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route is on the right side of the south face of Surprising Crag, just right of The Touch and left of Double Down. It starts at a corner whose right face is split by a thin crack.

Climb the face and crack past two bolts. You can use the corner left of the bolts or the hand crack right of the bolts; both variations are about 5.8. Just using the thin crack and face by the bolts is a lot harder (10 a/b).

Head to the upper face and climb steep rock past 3 more bolts. A 10a crux is at the next-to-last bolt.

This is a fun route with several variations in the lower section.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Matt Gates
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Gates   Boulder, CO
 
Led the right corner variation with a purple alien to protect the initial move into the crack, then a #1 and a #4 Camalot. Good hand jams - just too short. Aug 30, 2008
S. F. Pitman
Boulder, CO
S. F. Pitman   Boulder, CO
I think this is the most logically bolted route on the crag, which is sort of unfortunate since almost the entire thing could be protected (and the crux would be pretty ballsy if it was runout instead of bolted halfway through).

The small hands-and-fingers crack at the beginning makes this extra-cool, though the giant ledge halfway through is a little bit anticlimactic. Oct 18, 2009

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