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Routes in Chicken Wall

Alfa Chick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chicken Delight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Lips S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Daddy Blocker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mommy Blocker S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubber Chicken S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wessel in the Chicken Coop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Rick Leitner, 1999
Page Views: 3,287 total, 16/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


135 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

An OK route that climbs straight up Chicken Wall. It starts from the right side of the first obvious belay ledge at the base of the wall and climbs good holds to the top of the wall.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It can be set up as a TR from the top, but please be exceedingly careful when reaching down to clip the anchors from above. Use your best judgment as to whether it is safe or not.

Photos

Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9-
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.9-
Actually a really fun little pitch with a variety of holds: slopers, crimps, monster jugs, jams, and a mantle move. Only one or two moves that were 5.9. Jul 20, 2010
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.9-
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.9-
Fun route. I think 5.9 is a fair rating, considering the area. Good warm up. Some reachy moves. Pretty safe, although don't blow the last clip. Nice, steep pitch. I moved a little right about mid height, at a nice finger jam, but was able to easily reach back left for the clip. Then moved back in the bolt line via some great incuts. Lots of nice, satisfying holds on this climb. Jun 25, 2010
keith story
Boulder, CO
 
keith story   Boulder, CO
 
I love this route as a good warm up for the chicken wall. It has also been useful as a spot to teach others some leading skills. It seems more like a 5.8 than a 5.9, but it really depends on your route. Don't drift too far from the bolt line! Sep 2, 2009
Adam Robison
Westminster
 
Adam Robison   Westminster
 
I would lean towards the 8 rating. Good feet the whole way. Great warm-up for the rest of the wall. Apr 30, 2007
Nathan Gray  
 
8 or 9, there are pretty good holds sustained to the anchors. If ever there are worn holds there are good feet (my take). It's a decent route- definitely a good first run for the day. Mar 24, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This felt like solid 5.9 to me; maybe some of the edges have rounded off over the years. A good climb. Jun 19, 2006
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
I agree about the rating. But you must always think of the grading issues at 'The Sport Park' when you go up there. Many of the routes are a little overgraded. Perhaps this route could be 8+. Sep 23, 2001
There are so many features to use on this route, I'm not sure why it's not rated 5.8. Jun 21, 2001