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Routes in Chicken Wall

Alfa Chick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chicken Delight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Lips S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Daddy Blocker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mommy Blocker S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rubber Chicken S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wessel in the Chicken Coop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Rick Leitner, 1998
Page Views: 2,027 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is located on 'The Chicken Wall' of the 'Clock Tower'. Locate this route by walking uphill (left) to a face just right of a dirty corner groove system with 4 bolts on it. (1 more over lip). Climb the steep slab with small crimpers, keeping the feet out of the corner to the left. It is a great line although very short. It is a little overgraded in the guide, it is perhaps 11a/b at most.

Protection

5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
On the downside, this route has some rather sharp holds. On the upside, it has some fun balancy moves. Jun 23, 2007
Deaun Schovajsa
  5.11a
Deaun Schovajsa  
  5.11a
This would be a good route if it was a little longer. Still, better than some of the other routes on this section of rock. Jun 16, 2008
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.11a
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.11a
I'm with Dr. Evil on this one. Sharp! But overall fun with a crux around bolts 2 - 4.

Also, I made the crux moves before (attempting to) clip bolt 3, and got to the first good hold up and left of the third bolt. I was clipping from roughly waist height when I slipped and took a totally clean fall. (And I outweighed by belayer by about 70 lbs.) I think if you fell trying to clip the third bolt from the lower, worse holds, you might not take such a clean fall. Jun 27, 2010
Maggie M
Longmont, CO
 
Maggie M   Longmont, CO
 
A good climb with a short crux. It's relatively easy getting the clips on bolts 1 and 2, so if you are into hangdogging the crux (not that I'd ever do such a thing), then you are totally safe. Yep, sharp holds. Apr 8, 2012
Luke Childers
  5.11a/b
Luke Childers  
  5.11a/b
Almost had flash. No send but one hang. Thought it quite good and I look forward to a single push next I'm there. Yes, short but good moment is just good movement. Worth the effort. Sep 15, 2012
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Short, fun climb on thin (and sharp) holds. Nice and balancy -- keep an eye on your feet! Hard to know if the side of the arete on the left is on, though -- makes some parts significantly easier. Aug 8, 2016

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