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Routes in Chicken Wall

Alfa Chick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chicken Delight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Lips S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Daddy Blocker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mommy Blocker S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubber Chicken S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wessel in the Chicken Coop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 470 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


108 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is the leftmost route on the 'Chicken Wall' at 'The Clock Tower'. 7 bolts follow a face with pockets and crimpers to the anchors. The route can be eased by using the arete (a little dirty). I would place this route at the same grade as the route to the right, Rubber Chicken, somewhere around 5.10 c/d. Not quite as fluid as Rubber Chicken.

Protection

7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Bold moves, lots of standing up on slabby feet while pulling on small high underclings or sidepulls. Feels very stout on lead. Many of the best feet up the face are not visible from above...you have to kind of toe around for the pockets in the horizontal grooves. Going left to the lieback is more secure but also feels like cheating. Several reachy moves for me at 5'7".
May 14, 2017
Nathaniel Dray
Fort Collins
  5.10a/b
Nathaniel Dray   Fort Collins
  5.10a/b
Fun but short. If it were twice as long with half as many bolts, I would give it three stars. Apr 19, 2014
Good stuff. Dec 31, 2012
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Did it again today. New nemesis. Didn't use the left flake holds at all, tried going directly up the bolt line - definitely not 10a/b, at least c. Some holds are now polished and more difficult to use. Going to the right does work, but takes you off the bolt line.

Really wondering what the intended route was! I'll keep coming back until my skills allow me to climb straight up the bolt line - totally doable, just not at my skill level yet. Not that I think this is a particularly good route overall. Really interested to try the 10c to the right, it looks fun. Jun 2, 2012
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Climbing up the face didn't seem 5.10a/b, I used a bunch of the flake on the left. Very fun that way, it will feel difficult if you are strong on the laybacks. My partner said that his legs were worn out from hanging on the flake and sliding up the wall. May 1, 2012
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.10c
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.10c
Good route. I think the crux move was a little tougher than Rubber Chicken. Interesting holds, nice rock. I moved slightly left of the bolts to step up onto the ledge above the crux. Seems like if I was to the right I would have been on the other route. Sep 4, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.10c
The one to the right is comparable in difficulty but much better quality. Aug 6, 2010
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Came back to lead this again and tried it on the right side. Crag Dweller is right, it is more fun on the right side for sure. Jul 11, 2010
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.10a/b
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.10a/b
I think this route is more fun if you stay to the right of the bolt line. Sep 7, 2009
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
The moves felt redundant and pumpy. Delight wasn't terrible, but did not live up to its name. Worth it for a workout. Sep 2, 2009
ClimbandMine  
 
Not the worst route on the rock, but other than the crux reach/undercling, its kind of like doing the same move over and over.... Oct 15, 2002