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Routes in Chicken Wall

Alfa Chick S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chicken Delight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Lips S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Daddy Blocker S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mommy Blocker S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubber Chicken S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wessel in the Chicken Coop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Alber, July 1999
Page Views: 1,450 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Located on 'The Chicken Wall' of the 'Clock Tower', this is just right of "Chicken Hawk". This is the longest route on the wall and gives a couple cruxes. Watch out for the bat shit/piss before pulling the roof at the top. A key hold can be found for reaching the anchors by reaching around the right arete to a large jug. It is a decent route (a little dirty) with many different types of moves. 2 stars.

Protection

7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Chris Archer
  5.11a/b R
Chris Archer  
  5.11a/b R
Climbing on first half is OK, but bolts are placed to the right which makes route finding less obvious. The second half is contrived and poorly bolted. An attentive belayer is necessary to avoid a ledge fall on the upper half; 2 ways to pull the roof - I thought the right option better. Jul 8, 2013
Benten
Denver
 
Benten   Denver
 
Contrived and not easy. Aug 15, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
5.9??? Oh my god, Leo???


This is the one route at the cliff that I thought was hard at its grade and my partner agreed. I thought 11a.

Would be a decent route if it were not for the guano up high- a nasty lot of it when wet too- where are my arm-condums (TM)??? May 29, 2008
A decent route -- be careful clipping the second bolt! I "barn-doored" off the wall while trying to get in a better position to the right of this bolt to clip it --- I was flipped over head-first because of the rope running under my leg and came within 1 foot of hitting my head on the ground...close call!!

The next day I went and bought a helmet! Aug 8, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9
I'm no Sharma, but 5.9 is closer to reality. Mar 7, 2002