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Chicken Hawk

5.9, Sport, TR,  Avg: 2.1 from 212 votes
FA: Rick Leitner, 1999
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sport Park > Clock Tower > Chicken Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

An OK route that climbs straight up Chicken Wall. It starts from the right side of the first obvious belay ledge at the base of the wall and climbs good holds to the top of the wall.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It can be set up as a TR from the top, but please be exceedingly careful when reaching down to clip the anchors from above. Use your best judgment as to whether it is safe or not.

Per Brent Kelly: it is generally not advisable to try and rig a TR from above unless you are very experienced and prepared to rig a safety leash while accessing the anchor bolts via a Class 4 scramble.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chicken Hawk from the ground. Anchor is hidden over top of the route.
[Hide Photo] Chicken Hawk from the ground. Anchor is hidden over top of the route.
Emily Brown on Chicken Hawk.
[Hide Photo] Emily Brown on Chicken Hawk.
Climber on the final overhang of Chicken Hawk.
[Hide Photo] Climber on the final overhang of Chicken Hawk.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] There are so many features to use on this route, I'm not sure why it's not rated 5.8. Jun 21, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
[Hide Comment] I agree about the rating. But you must always think of the grading issues at 'The Sport Park' when you go up there. Many of the routes are a little overgraded. Perhaps this route could be 8+. Sep 23, 2001
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This felt like solid 5.9 to me; maybe some of the edges have rounded off over the years. A good climb. Jun 19, 2006
[Hide Comment] 8 or 9, there are pretty good holds sustained to the anchors. If ever there are worn holds there are good feet (my take). It's a decent route- definitely a good first run for the day. Mar 24, 2007
Adam Robison
Westminster
 
[Hide Comment] I would lean towards the 8 rating. Good feet the whole way. Great warm-up for the rest of the wall. Apr 30, 2007
keith story
Castlegar
 
[Hide Comment] I love this route as a good warm up for the chicken wall. It has also been useful as a spot to teach others some leading skills. It seems more like a 5.8 than a 5.9, but it really depends on your route. Don't drift too far from the bolt line! Sep 2, 2009
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Fun route. I think 5.9 is a fair rating, considering the area. Good warm up. Some reachy moves. Pretty safe, although don't blow the last clip. Nice, steep pitch. I moved a little right about mid height, at a nice finger jam, but was able to easily reach back left for the clip. Then moved back in the bolt line via some great incuts. Lots of nice, satisfying holds on this climb. Jun 25, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Actually a really fun little pitch with a variety of holds: slopers, crimps, monster jugs, jams, and a mantle move. Only one or two moves that were 5.9. Jul 20, 2010
Drew Middleton
Peachtree Corners, GA
[Hide Comment] Interesting climb where the first half feels like 5.10 and the second half feels like 5.6 or so. For that, it's a perfect confidence booster. Fun climb with some cool moves! Sep 13, 2020
Drew Middleton
Peachtree Corners, GA
[Hide Comment] Oh, also my two cents: I think trying to set the toprope by hiking to the top is too dangerous. Even scrambling down to the top seems sketchy - I can't imagine reaching over the top. No judgment for those who feel comfortable doing so - just my advice for those looking to toprope: much better to find a friend to lead it first and set an anchor first. Sep 13, 2020
Brent Kelly
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Thank you to the BCC for the tasty new glue-ins!

Agreed with sentiments that rigging as a TR from up-top scramble access is generally inadvisable. If you aren't comfortable leading it, you probably won't be comfortable with the anchor scramble access with inherent risk of a fatal slip-and-fall. Jun 8, 2022
Peter Thomas
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Bolts on this route were replaced in 2022 with hardware provided by BCC. You can learn to replace bolts or donate to the anchor replacement program at boulderclimbers.org/bolt-re…. Feb 15, 2023