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The Sky Cafe Rock Climbing

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Routes in The Sky Cafe

L › R R › L A › Z

	Appetizer, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Bar Room Ranger Fight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Dwarf's Dilemma S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Fire And Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Illegal Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	One Way Ticket Into Exile S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rain Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Ride the Wind S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Right-facing Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Room With A View S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Wind Song S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

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GPS:	39.9726, -105.4648 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	david goldstein on Mar 31, 2006
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) Details

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

I went to Sky Cafe and was disappointed, finding it another example of the star inflation that is rife in Rolofson's new guides. Sky Cafe reminded me of The Cornerstone, a third tier Boulder Canyon sport crag where the average climb quality is about two stars. Rolofson's observation that SC is a windy spot was right on that day, so we decamped after a couple of pitches to the main/lower Sport Park which seemed pretty mega after Sky Cafe.

It has a dozen or so routes in the advanced difficulty range. They have been well-documented in Rolofson's newest guidebook.

L->R:

The Stone Cafe - below and NW of Sky Cafe

A. Stone Soup, 9+, 1p, 55', gear.

B. Thanks a Latte', 6, 1p, 45', gear.

C. Rock Lobster, 10-, 1p, 65', gear & bolt.

D. Reach for the Sky... Cafe, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.

E. Yin Pin (aka Stonefish), 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.

F. Gruel Shoes, 8, 1p, 65', bolts +/- gear.

Sky Cafe

A. The Appetizer, 10+ or 11+, 1p, 30', bolts.

B. Dwarf's Dilemma, 12- or 12, 1p, 25, bolts.

C. Wind Song, 11+, 1p 50', bolts.

CD. Rain Dance, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.

D. Fire And Rain, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.

E. Right-facing Dihedral, 9, 1p, gear.

F. Room With A View, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.

G. One Way Ticket Into Exile, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

H. Illegal Smile, 12-, 1p, bolts.

I. Bar Room Ranger Fight, 11, 1p, bolts.

J. Ride the Wind, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.

Getting There

From the Visor, follow cairns in a shallow trough uphill, eventually diagonaling up and left to SC, the only obvious outcropping. It should take about 10 minutes from the Visor.

Per Mark Rolofson: the crag can be seen from the parking lot. It is at the top of the hill. You can't see it from most of the Sport Park. TO APPROACH: from right side of the Visor, it used to be possible to walk directly up the ravine. It is now choked with fallen trees, so walk out from the right side of Visor, south, and find a trail on the uphill side of the ravine. Follow it, paralleling the ravine, to a 12 foot high boulder. There is bouldering on it. Walk left (north) around the boulder, and continue easily uphill. You should be on a clear section of the hillside between the trees. If you try to follow the ridge, you will be obstructed by small rocks, bush, and fallen trees. Look for cairns, but don't be surprised if many of them have fallen down. Angle right (south) up the clearest part of the hillside. After a few hundred feet, there is an 20 foot high rock. The trail switchbacks left (north) along the rock's base and continues for 400 feet to the ridge and the right side of the Sky Cafe. The approach takes about 25 minutes from the car, depending on what the stream crossing involves.