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Routes in The Stone Cafe

Gruel Shoes S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reach for the Sky... Cafe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rock Lobster T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Soup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thanks a Latte' T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yin Pin (aka Stonefish) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Sharon Kloepfer and Mark Rolofson, 7/13/08
Page Views: 373 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Jan 4, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

About ten feet right of Reach for the Sky, climb steeply past three bolts. An amazing jug/flake allows cranking up over a bulge, to clip the fourth bolt. Because there is nothing positive enough to use from this position, I moved back down a bit, then reached left to a big hold and manteled over the bulge from that side (5.10). I clipped bolts up a slab that becomes invisible under an extensive crust of crustose lichen. Using my fingertips, I removed lichen from a key roughness, teetered up and desperately clipped the last bolt in the slab (eighth overall and in the middle of a big patch of thick lichen), then fell and lowered to a rest. From the rest, I moved left, climbed the upper part of Reach...'s flake, underclung diagonally right under the overhang, reached far right to clip B8's draw, then moved up into more underclings, reached way high and left, clipped B9 (just below the lip), cranked for the lip, and yarded up high enough to clip and grab long chains (5.10d+ to do all of this).

Protection

Nine bolts to chains.

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.11b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11b
The name of the route is "Yin Pin". I established this route with Sharon Kloepfer on July 13, 2008. I rated it 5.11b. I thought the start had a hard move at the top of the short arĂȘte to gain the slab at 4th bolt. The final overhang has interesting moves as well. I did not grab the chains as George did but climbed to where my hands were on top & I could stand on a hold. Interesting that you found the slab dirty. I did wire brush this line. I guess if you stray much it could be lichenous. Perhaps some lichen actually grew back. Apr 26, 2015

More About Yin Pin (aka Stonefish)

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