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Little Cottonwood Canyon

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Albion Basin 
Allen's Ridge Area 
Altered States Gully 
Black Peeler Buttress 
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Commitment Buttress 
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Early Bird 
Egg, The 
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Humane Society Wall  
Intensive Care Slab 
Keel, The 
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Lisa Falls 
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Lonely Bashie Buttress 
Lots of Balls Slab 
Maybird Slide Area 
Memorial Day Buttress 
Pawn, The 
Pentapitch Area 
Perla's Ridge and Environs 
Peruvian Buttress 
Plumb Line Gully 
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Sail, The 
Scruffy Band 
Super Slab 
Swamp, The 
Tanners Gulch 
Team Serious Wall 
Thumb Area, The 
Thumb Nail, The 
Triangle Wall 
Upper Burner Wall 
Waterfront, The 
Westwind Buttress 
Wheeler-Newsome Wall 

Little Cottonwood Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.5727, -111.777 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,055,946
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [10 people like this page.]
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.

Ice Climbing 

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.

Getting There 

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

1,137 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',77],['3 Stars',407],['2 Stars',442],['1 Star',174],['Bomb',14]

Classic Climbing Routes in Little Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Little Cottonwood Canyon:
Twisted   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Secret Garden : Copperhead Boulder
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area
Pentapitch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Pentapitch Area
After The Fall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Green Adjective Gully
The Coffin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Coffin Buttress
The Green Adjective   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Green Adjective Gully
S-Direct   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   The Thumb Area
Gordon's Hangover   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Green Adjective Gully
Sasquatch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Pentapitch Area
Mexican Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crescent Crack Buttress
The Fin Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   The Fin
Bongeater   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Bongeater Buttress
Stiffler's Mom   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'   Coal Pit Buttress
Tick Fever   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Wheeler-Newsome Wall
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area
Enter the Dragon   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Dragon Arch
Medussa   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One
All Chalk And No Action   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Green Adjective Gully
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Little Cottonwood Canyon

Featured Route For Little Cottonwood Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: The "sun in the eyes crux"

Stifflers Stiffy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Coal Pit Buttress
The 3rd pitch var. to Stifflers Mom, Try to refrain from climbing the nice flake on the 3rd pitch of Stifflers and shuffle out left. The bolt line is obvious.Continue up Stifflers, or descend via, 3 single rope raps to the ground....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Little Cottonwood Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Gree...
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Gree...
Rock Climbing Photo: I love running into these guys. They're so inspiri...
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiri...
Rock Climbing Photo: I love this place.
I love this place.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heeey Goat!
Heeey Goat!
Rock Climbing Photo: Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
Rock Climbing Photo: sun set
sun set
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY O...
The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY O...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bushwhack Crack, LCC
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
Rock Climbing Photo: Hellgate Cliffs, LCC Photo: Garrett Bentley
Hellgate Cliffs, LCC Photo: Garrett Bentley
Rock Climbing Photo: Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon....
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon....
Rock Climbing Photo: view from pentapitch!
view from pentapitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: LCC Granite
LCC Granite
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of LCC.
BETA PHOTO: Bottom of LCC.
Rock Climbing Photo: view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there ha...
view of Cecret Lake & unknown formations (there ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up LCC from Maybird
Looking up LCC from Maybird
Rock Climbing Photo: What its all about.  Good friends, good beer, and ...
What its all about. Good friends, good beer, and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress
Valley View from Crescent Crack Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top on the Seth Shaw Memorial wall. Ca...
Nearing the top on the Seth Shaw Memorial wall. Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church...
BETA PHOTO: SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church...
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Shaw memorial Wall view from the start  of th...
Seth Shaw memorial Wall view from the start of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alpine campfire black Pearl Gulley, Seth Shaw Memo...
Alpine campfire black Pearl Gulley, Seth Shaw Memo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Look down onto the Ballroom Traverse, Alta.
Look down onto the Ballroom Traverse, Alta.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Superior from Alta.
Mt. Superior from Alta.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Cont...
Mystery route between Humane Society Wall and Cont...

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Little Cottonwood Canyon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 2, 2017
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 28, 2001
Little Cottonwood is an infamous area with a rich history of great traditional climbs, bouldering, and superb backcountry skiing. The rock is a very solid granite variation and offers many excellent cam and nut placements. Most routes have bolted belays, a very nice luxury, and all offer amazing climbing in equally amazing settings. Boulering is definitely not to be over looked, the canyon contains numerous routes ranging from V0 to V13. There are many bouldering spots, so one can find solitude and most offer extremely short approaches. No matter what type of climbing you are looking to do, Little Cottonwood Canyon will offer some of the best routes in wonderful and surreal settings.
By Taylor Morgan
From: Draper, UT
Jan 11, 2011
Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:

I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.

Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on the southwest face of Mt. Superior, directly adjacent its summer trailhead/winter access points. This area is one of the most popular and treasured mountaineering, hiking, and backcountry skiing areas in Utah.

Furthermore, Mt. Superior is among the most beautiful and photographed areas in Utah, and the West. In fact, the 1976 Denver Olympic Bid Committee used a photo of Mt. Superior on its official bid packet.

While the proposed roller coaster will not directly inhibit mountaineering, hiking, or skiing, it will significantly diminish these pursuits and will be an embarrassing eyesore in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Utah residents and tourists visit our canyons to play in the mountains, not on amusement-park rides.

Please contact your member of the Salt Lake County Council to urge them to oppose Snowbird's plans.
By Anson Call
From: Provo, UT
Mar 30, 2013
BEWARE of TICKS! My wife and I were in the lower parts of the canyon today. A few hours after we left, she discovered a tick on the back of her neck, just above her hairline. CREEPY and DANGEROUS! Ticks can carry some pretty nasty diseases, like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. It's something most people don't even think about, but they can be a real hazard - especially in the spring. Every time you leave the canyon, be sure to check your skin and scalp for these nasty buggers!
By T Roper
Jan 7, 2014
just scanning the classics on the front page and notice that All chalk as well as trench warfare are not listed, in fact no 12s are. kind of strange since people travel great distances to do these routes.
By shanejcollins
From: Washington
Mar 19, 2014
Hey, can anyone tell me how good cell service is at LCC? it looks crazy close to the city.
By zoso
Mar 19, 2014
Depends on the carrier of course, but generally LCC is more cell friendly than BCC as it is a glacial canyon and therefore generally straighter. Certainly there are places where a signal is hard to find, but it's usually not too far of a walk to get one.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Mar 20, 2014
BCC has been outfitted with cell relays (?) last year, I have yet to find a crag where I can't InstaBook spray about how much of a choss slayer I am. LCC is more hit or miss for me, line of sight to the valley usually works.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
May 18, 2015
Who's stumping all those trees around crescent parking and further up? Lots of survey ribbon tied on trees and swaths cut through the oak brush.

Anybody know what is going down?
By zoso
May 18, 2015
Hmmm interesting. You should call the Forest Service about it.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
May 19, 2015
Pretty sure it's the USFS ->
By d-know
From: electric lady land
May 20, 2015
Thanks for the info, bozo.

Greg G comes thru with the goods.
By Tofu Brain
From: Denver
Aug 5, 2015
I googled the name but got no results..
Rock Climbing Photo: I have seen a lot hangers/quick links with this na...
I have seen a lot hangers/quick links with this name on it, any idea who this Caldeboner is?
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jul 3, 2016
What: Salt Lake Climbing Festival
The Salt Lake Climbing Festival is a unique event focused on educational clinics and mentorship. Stay with us up at the beautiful Peruvian Lodge, Alta, Little Cottonwood Canyon for an all-inclusive weekend of yoga, outdoor climbing clinics, camping, cocktails, meals, & slideshows.
Clinics include multi-pitch, traditional Lead Climbing, Top Site Self Rescue, Sport Lead Climbing, Light & Fast Alpinism, and more.

As our sport grows and more climbers come from the climbing gym to the outdoors, each of us must become better stewards of our climbing areas in order to maintain our access - not only through crag care, but also through mentorship at the crag. Become a better climber and join us!
When: August 27-28th
Where: Peruvian Lodge, Alta, Utah
Tickets: $99 Full Weekend Pass, $20 Saturday Night Only

Rock Climbing Photo: Join us for the best climbing festival in Salt Lak...
Join us for the best climbing festival in Salt Lake - the only climbing festival in Salt Lake.
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Aug 9, 2016
Adopt a Crags
Lower Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing Trail Access Project
Saturdays & Sundays
Location: Meet in the lower Little Cottonwood Park-n-Ride. If you miss the morning meet up, join the crew at the work area. / Work Areas August-November include: Crescent Crack & Mexican Crack Staircase, Bong Eater, Secret Garden, Coffin / Notes: Bring water and snacks. Long pants, close-toed shoes, helmets, gloves, sun protection and sunglasses are required. Expect heavy lifting and physical work.
An Adopt a Crag is about giving back to the climbing areas we use on a regular basis. It is important that we make an effort to maintain and care for our climbing areas in order to keep them open. Climbing is a privilege and not a right. Give back to your crag and volunteer with us today.
Rock Climbing Photo: Volunteers Needed
Volunteers Needed
By Matthew Hallstead
Nov 12, 2016
I found a helmet in the park and ride parking lot. Text me describing the helmet and I'll get it back to you. (570) 504-6414
By Graham O.
Feb 8, 2017
How quickly does this place dry after rain? For example, do you think it would be dry on Sunday? Also, can someone tell me the location of Blue Steel (v8) relative to the Secret Garden parking lot?
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jun 2, 2017
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of

Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.

Read More:

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
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