Elevation: 10,000 ft
GPS: 40.573, -111.777 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,074 total · 72/month
Shared By: Ari Menitove on Jul 10, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Hogum Fork is a subdrainage on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon, located between Maybird Gulch on the east and Bells Canyon/Coalpit Gulch on the east. The Pfeifferhorn (Little Matterhorn on the quad map) is located at the head of Hogum Fork on its southeast edge. In the winter, Hogum Fork offers outstanding skiing, including runs like the Hypodermic Needle, the Hogum 200, and the Northwest Couloir of the Pfeifferhorn. In summer, Hogum Fork offers at least one rock climbing route in a spectacular remote high alpine setting. The granite here is similar to that in nearby Lone Peak Cirque.

Getting There

The best way to approach Hogum Fork is to start at the White Pine Trailhead (just below Snowbird) in Little Cottonwood Canyon. After almost a mile, take the right most trail towards Red Pine Lake. After a another mile and a half or so, take a right on a foot bridge and follow the trail for another mile into Maybird Gulch to where the trail ends at some small lakes with a great view of the Pfeifferhorn.

From here, it's pretty much all talus hopping. Angle up and south southwest to the low spot of the North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn. Once you're over this ridge, hike down the short, steep, and prickerbush infested slope into Hogum Fork. Expect ~2 hrs plus or minus change and about 2500 vertical feet to get to this point from the White Pine Trailhead.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hogum Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Hogum Z Right
Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thunderbolt Ridge
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hogum's Heroes
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hogum Z Right
WI3+ Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Thunderbolt Ridge
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Hogum's Heroes
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Hogum Fork »

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Rob T  
If you're going to hike all the way out there, you might as well check out the plane wreckage mentioned in the Ruckman guide. If you're standing at the base of Hogum's Heros, the pieces are about 150 yds down slope over your right shoulder. None of the pieces are too big these days, but still an interesting sight. Jul 24, 2006
kent w  
An alternative approach from someone who thinks this is the hardest approach of all time.

Do not go into Maybird, but continue up Redpine like you are going to climb the Pfeifferhorn. At the pass, start traversing across the south face of the Pfeifferhorn. The start is steep but reasonable, after several hundred yards it turns into flat alpine fields with lots of water. Just continue across until the Col at the top of Hogum. It is very easy to find, as the west ridge of the Pfeifferhorn basically stops there. At the Col, leave backpack, food etc. and descend into Hogum with your rack, rope, and the shirt on your back (hardmen were there rock shoes, but I don't recommend it). You can rope up to get down into Hogum, but I 3rd classed it and it seemed OK. From the base of the Col, cross a short section of scree to the base of the climb. At the top, just walk the ridge back to your pack (maybe 1 mile) of easy walking with a little ridge traverse.

If you look at a topo you can see the approach fairly easily. It saves you a lot of up and down, up Redpine, down Maybird, up the north ridge, down into Hogum, and even more importantly the very tiresome traverse across the scree fields in Hogum.

You will actually see the airplane impact location, with a few pieces still on the rock on the last pitch to the rim.

BTW, this is a huge day and a amazing route, a Pennings masterpiece. All pitches are hard and take route finding skills.
kent Feb 9, 2009
and if you see a fixed nut, you are a ways to the right of the beginning of heroes. THAT route is called astrochoss and is not recommended. thought you should know, it's thrown more than one party off route. Oct 8, 2009