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Hogum Fork Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Hogum Fork

L › R R › L A › Z

	Hogum Z Center WI3-
	Hogum Z Left WI3-
	Hogum Z Right WI3+
	Hogum's Heroes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Super Troopers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thunderbolt Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Y Ice WI4+ R

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Elevation:	10,000 ft	3,048 m
GPS:	40.53847, -111.72186 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Ari Menitove on Jul 10, 2006 · Updates
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Hogum Fork is a subdrainage on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon, located between Maybird Gulch on the east and Bells Canyon/Coalpit Gulch on the east. The Pfeifferhorn (Little Matterhorn on the quad map) is located at the head of Hogum Fork on its southeast edge. In the winter, Hogum Fork offers outstanding skiing, including runs like the Hypodermic Needle, the Hogum 200, and the Northwest Couloir of the Pfeifferhorn. In summer, Hogum Fork offers at least one rock climbing route in a spectacular remote high alpine setting. The granite here is similar to that in nearby Lone Peak Cirque.

Getting There

The best way to approach Hogum Fork is to start at the White Pine Trailhead (just below Snowbird) in Little Cottonwood Canyon. After almost a mile, take the right most trail towards Red Pine Lake. After a another mile and a half or so, take a right on a foot bridge and follow the trail for another mile into Maybird Gulch to where the trail ends at some small lakes with a great view of the Pfeifferhorn.

From here, it's pretty much all talus hopping. Angle up and south southwest to the low spot of the North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn. Once you're over this ridge, hike down the short, steep, and prickerbush infested slope into Hogum Fork. Expect ~2 hrs plus or minus change and about 2500 vertical feet to get to this point from the White Pine Trailhead.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hogum Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

WI3+ 25 ● Hogum Z Right Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 21 ● Thunderbolt Ridge Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 41 ● Hogum's Heroes Trad, Alpine 5 pitches