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Elevation: 8,000 ft 2,438 m
GPS: 40.5754, -111.7083
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 44,368 total · 197/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Jun 27, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
Page Updates (admin only)
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Maybird Slide Area is home to some recently developed areas. A big thanks to those who built the trail; that must have taken a lot of work. The rock here is Little Cottonwood's famous quartz monzonite, but don't be expecting to find sweeping slabs here. Most of the walls are steep, juggy with the occasional crack or seam. The rock quality is good and the routes have been cleaned up, but there are sections of rotten rock. Given that this is further up the canyon and the trail isn't obvious, this area is secluded in nature. Most of the cliffs are east-facing, so they are in the shade after 2pm or so. This makes for great climbing on hot summer afternoons or for early morning climbing in cooler weather. There was a gentle breeze coming down the gully in the evening. If you're looking for something new, this is definitely worth the hike.

Getting There Suggest change

Reset your odometer at the "neon" sign at the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Drive ~3.8 miles up the canyon. You'll pass the "Maybird Avalanche Area" sign, go around a corner and then pull off to the side of the road. A lone broken, mostly fallen pine tree (not very big) and a rock cairn mark the trail. This trail has cleared away most of the brush but is still relatively new. It is easy to follow and leads to a rock-filled gulch. Rock cairns take you on the path of least resistance through the gulch and into the side canyon. There are remnants of two stone huts at the first climbing area, the Purple Wall. The Maybird East Area is visible to the east from this point. Plan on a 20-25 minute approach from the car to this point. Parking coordinates (40.5712441,-111.7073306)

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Maybird Slide Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
● Feline Stall Tactics
Trad
Maybird E Side
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
● Pump It Until Purple
Sport
Purple Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
● Conundrum
Trad 2 pitches
Puzzle
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 67
● The Wine Drip
Sport
Purple Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 69
● Purple Pumper
Sport
Purple Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 67
● Mad Swiller
Sport
Purple Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 63
● Squeeze It Until It's Purple
Sport
Purple Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
● Drop Out
Sport
Purple Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
● Bubbles & Booze
Sport
Purple Wall
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1
 5
● The ButterFace
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
Butterface Buttress
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Feline Stall Tactics Maybird E Side
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Pump It Until Purple Purple Wall
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Conundrum Puzzle
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
● The Wine Drip Purple Wall
 67
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Purple Pumper Purple Wall
 69
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Mad Swiller Purple Wall
 67
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Squeeze It Until It's Purple Purple Wall
 63
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Drop Out Purple Wall
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Bubbles & Booze Purple Wall
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● The ButterFace Butterface Buttress
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1 Trad, Aid 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Maybird Slide Area »

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Photos

First bolts at the purple wall are now at eye level.
First bolts at the purple wall are now at eye l…
 3
Walking out in the evening is kind of nice.
Walking out in the evening is kind of nice.
 1
The approach starts to the left of the fallen trees. Look for some cairns to mark the start.
The approach starts to the left of the fallen t…
 1
Trail starts behind this east-facing sign
Trail starts behind this east-facing sign
 0
This is the trailhead. You can see the Maybird gully in the distance and the lone pine tree with the rock cairn beneath it in the foreground.
This is the trailhead. You can see the Maybird…
 0
Mike Bird on the Purple Pumper.
Mike Bird on the Purple Pumper.
 0
When you see these signs, pull off the road. This is the place.
When you see these signs, pull off the road. T…
 0
Butter Face climbs the crack that emerges from the brush, then is follows a bolt line that meanders right and up. Who knows where it goes from there? There is a fixed green rope to make the super rotten approach and descent less of a headache.
Butter Face climbs the crack that emerges from…
 0
The view from the Maybird East area.
The view from the Maybird East area.
 0
Looking down at the road from the Purple Wall.
Looking down at the road from the Purple Wall.
 0
The impressive-looking Butterface Buttress further up the Maybird Gully.
The impressive-looking Butterface Buttress furt…
 0

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