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Routes in The Butterface Buttress

ButterFace, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1
Butterknife T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A1
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
Page Views: 102 total, 1/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. Climb obvious finger to hand crack off the ledge on the right, move up at the terminus of the crack clipping a few bolts. A WILD traverse right-ward with your heels hanging over the edge/arete get the blood pumping then you reach the crux. Push hard, grab a jug and follow the sweet arete to a nice ledge with 2 bolt belay. 5.11+

P2. A mix of aid and free through a rotten crack that leaves the ledge on the left. Pass a two bolts until free climbing becomes easy, wander right ward up some ramps to a 2 bolt belay. Dirty, rotten 5.8 A1 (not recommended)

Protection

#0 -#4 Metoilus, 1,2,3(optional) Camalots, Qd's.
Rap from 1st pitch anchor, 2nd pitch not recommended.

Photos

Shadow Ayala
Lexington, Kentucky
 
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, Kentucky
 
Not the best rock and certainly not the worst. I absolutely loved this climb. My wife hated it. She wasn't a fan of the rock quality. This thing is airy, exposed, and technical. IMO, the chossy bits just add more to the experience. If there was a little less kitty litter, this would see way more traffic. Jun 6, 2017
tenesmus  
 
This is why you hike up that cool gully. Super fun, insecure climbing. Its funny that a climb protected this well can leave you shaking a little. Jun 30, 2007