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Routes in Maybird East Side

Black Cats S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Declawed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Failed Big Cat Safari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Feline Stall Tactics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pentapussy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PetThePussy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

If the Purple Wall becomes a popular destination crag, you can always retreat to the Maybird East Side, just so long as you brought your trad rack. These routes are in the sun until around 2 hours before sunset, and there was hardly a breeze. The rock quality here is superficially good, but sounds pretty hollow when thumped. Still, the Maybird East Side offers three moderate traditional routes that are all about having fun.
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Follow the approach to the Purple Wall. From the remnants of the stone huts, a dirt trail traverses across a rocky slope. Be careful, erosion happens quickly here. There are a few cairns that guide you up and around to the base of this area. A large pine tree grows out of the top of the arete. Tack on an additional 3 minutes to the Purple Wall approach.

6 Total Climbs

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This has two sweet lines on it. These climbs were more interesting than the shaded stuff in the gully (which are all mainly one move wonders). I would definitely come here before the purple wall area. Pleasantly surprised! Dont be put off at the difficulty ratings, if you know LCC/Bells cracks/face, these are grades are a little more friendly. Aug 17, 2010
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
There's nothing like having baseball sized granite chunks raining down on you. The first ascent of this area was one hell of a lead and just as exciting belaying. The dance to preserve our rope from certain doom due to rock fall was something I don't wish to try again. Jul 12, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
Buy the topo for this area at IME. The proceeds fund the bolts you clip. Jul 12, 2007

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