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Routes in Maybird East Side

Black Cats S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Declawed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Failed Big Cat Safari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Feline Stall Tactics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pentapussy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PetThePussy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Charlie Stoker & Laura Stade, 9/12/2016
Page Views: 187 total · 11/month
Shared By: Charlie S on Sep 12, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Wow, that looks like an awesome crack! Let's see if we can find it!

Like searching for the elusive beasts on a safari, so was the hunt for this crack. Ultimately it turned into an interesting meander up the rock, only realizing too late that I had overshot it by about 30 feet.

Who knows, maybe that awesome but short looking crack is only the shadows of the detached flake on Declawed? Another day will tell.

Location

Start by traversing right from the base of Declawed until lined up with the pine tree. Take the crack through a few jungle thrashes.

Next, acquire a fun finger crack. Make sure it doesn't flake off on you.

On the next ledge, take the large, crystal-crumbling, exfoliating OW. At the top of this, scramble to the tree, set up an upper point, and then downclimb to the top of Declawed.

Is it worth it? Probably not. But it was worth the adventure.

Protection

Cams to #3. But not too many. The climbing is good but the rock quality is not. Long draws. At the top, sling the tree and downclimb to the declawed anchors. Make sure you leave enough pieces for your second.

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