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Routes in Maybird East Side

Black Cats S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Declawed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Failed Big Cat Safari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Feline Stall Tactics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pentapussy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PetThePussy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Luke Douglas & Bobby Gray, June 2006
Page Views: 231 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Feline Stall Tactics starts in a crack inside a small dihedral to the left of the primary corner. It climbs over the arete and into this primary corner system. This section of the climb is shared with Pentapussy. There are some cool fingerlocks and stems inside the main corner system. Climb the handcrack that diagonals up and to the left through the crux roof and enjoy the sweet flake above. Rather than aiming directly for the tree, climb the slab above the flake and then downclimb to the tree for a little extra fun.

Location

Feline Stall Tactics starts in a small dihedral to the left of the left side of a bush to get into the small dihedral. There are slings around the huge pine tree growing out of the arete. You can rappel from here to the base of the gully with a 60 meter rope.

Protection

Standard rack-small nuts to a 3" cam. Bring a few long runners to reduce rope drag. There are slings around a tree for an anchor. No fixed protection.

Photos

BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
If only everyone knew the story behind the name. What a great climb, grabbing the upper flake for the first time was a very nerve racking experience, but a quality climb none the less. Enjoy! Jul 1, 2007
k. riemondy
Denver, Co
  5.8
k. riemondy   Denver, Co
  5.8
If this climb were at the gate, then half the route would break off in a week. The top part of the climb is highly reminiscent of the zion curtain pitch on arm and hammer. Use caution. Sep 22, 2007
Pete Spri
  5.8
Pete Spri  
  5.8
Fun route. Just a little too short, but a great lead for anyone in the 5.8 range. Jun 15, 2009
Its a heads up 5.8. Great climbing, but consider what you are pulling on and putting your feet on. It would have a line if it were at the gate, but it would soon be a different climb as well.

A couple extra hand sized pieces would have been useful. Long runners also, as it wanders around a little bit. Sep 28, 2009
Michael Buchanan  
  5.6
What an awesome route, if only it were longer/multi-pitch! The mini-zion curtain flake is awesome! The climbs starts really sweet and the bulge is sweet! Destined to be a classic. Aug 17, 2010
cdec
SLC, UT
 
cdec   SLC, UT
 
I was excited to get on this route after seeing the comparison to the Zion Curtain. About the only thing similar is that both pitches are rock. Comparing the two pitches is a crime. One is beautiful, long, exposed and clean. The other is this.

Saying that this thing wouldn't remain the same at the gate is being as delicate as one should be climbing the "flakes". Easy enough but frightful. At some point something big is coming down.

Feline stall tactics:
Easy corner to a single hand jam. Contiue up through scary flakes to stacked blocks. Finish and use 1/2 dead tree for anchor. Jul 30, 2011

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