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Routes in Maybird East Side

Black Cats S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Declawed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Failed Big Cat Safari T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Feline Stall Tactics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pentapussy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PetThePussy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: 9/9/07 Clark O, Greg M, Tie Robison
Page Views: 80 total · 1/month
Shared By: Greg Martinez on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

2 cruxes

Location

90 feet or so down from Declawed

Protection

7 bolts & chains, or small gear at bottom then 4 bolts to chains. pick your poison.

Photos

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Greg Martinez
SLC UTAH
 
Greg Martinez   SLC UTAH
 
if you hit the crack with a hammer in the lower section you wouldn't place pro in it.or maybe you would looks are deceiving it looks solid. & the upper wall is detached completely i would not place any thing in this section & don't even use the crack to climb stay left & its the crux. & the upper wall could fall off any day. Oct 23, 2007
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
At first I was angry to see bolts protecting a line with a crack as its main weakness(in lcc no less) and didnt want to climb it. i gave in today as it was too cold to stay at the purple wall and all i have to say is, DONT CHOP THE BOLTS. the flake at the bottom and the formation at the top seem to be absolutely detached. fun climb but im not sure how long it will last. Nov 2, 2007
Terrible to bolt a crack. For example, the first bolt is closer than 6" from the crack. No, it's not even close to "dangerous". It's at least a 6" thick slab of granite, easily over 10 feet wide and weighing several tons. This line is a beautiful thin hands to fingers crack, all the way up to the anchors. Probably the worst bolted crack line that I've seen in LCC. I lead this totally clean w/o any bolts 6/15/09, and there is absolutely solid gear the entire length of the route to the anchors from bomber nuts to cams.

The logic about "a hammer" to test the strength is poor, imo. That's like saying you should bolt the Zion Curtain pitch of Arm and Hammer. Or any of the flexing/expanding flake trad routes (which are way, way worse than this crack) in the canyon.

Good crack, but sliding ethics in LCC. If you want to do this clean, a set of nut, and tcus up to hand sized cams will be plenty. We finished by wrapping around left from the anchors and climbed another corner. Jun 15, 2009
Bottom (3) bolts pulled and patched. Jun 30, 2009
Greg Martinez
SLC UTAH
 
Greg Martinez   SLC UTAH
 
springs the flake broke off at the end of last year. I pulled the 1st 3 bolts.and we led the bottom of the climb with gear last year.place gear in the upper detached wall if you want I don't Jul 31, 2009
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Really Fun Little Route. I climbed it without using any bolts. I felt the upper feature was bomber and the gear was good. Really fun cruiser crack climbing. I would recommend ignoring the bolts and stay in the crack. May 27, 2012

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