Elevation: 5,379 ft
GPS: 40.573, -111.777 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,603,725 total · 7,544/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.

SLCA Annual Fundraiser

Ice Climbing

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.

Getting There

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)

1,226 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 139
Surfboard
Boulder
V4 6B
 135
Twisted
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 534
Pentapitch
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 402
Satan's Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 427
The Coffin
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 233
After The Fall
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 464
Sasquatch
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 346
The Green Adjective
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 292
Gordon's Hangover
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 91
S-Direct
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 330
Mexican Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 220
Bongeater
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 144
Equipment Overhang
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
Tick Fever
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 130
All Chalk And No Action
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Surfboard Boulders - Litt… > 5 Mile Boulders
 139
V4 6B Boulder
Twisted Boulders - Litt… > Secret Garden > Copperhead Boulder
 135
V4 6B Boulder
Pentapitch Pentapitch Area
 534
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Satan's Corner Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
 402
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Coffin Coffin Buttress
 427
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
After The Fall Green Adjective Gully
 233
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sasquatch Pentapitch Area
 464
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Green Adjective Green Adjective Gully
 346
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Gordon's Hangover Green Adjective Gully
 292
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
S-Direct Thumb Area
 91
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 7 pitches
Mexican Crack Crescent Crack Buttress
 330
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bongeater Bongeater Buttress
 220
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Equipment Overhang Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
 144
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tick Fever Wheeler-Newsome Wall
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
All Chalk And No Action Green Adjective Gully
 130
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon »

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Photos

Little Cottonwood is an infamous area with a rich history of great traditional climbs, bouldering, and superb backcountry skiing. The rock is a very solid granite variation and offers many excellent cam and nut placements. Most routes have bolted belays, a very nice luxury, and all offer amazing climbing in equally amazing settings. Boulering is definitely not to be over looked, the canyon contains numerous routes ranging from V0 to V13. There are many bouldering spots, so one can find solitude and most offer extremely short approaches. No matter what type of climbing you are looking to do, Little Cottonwood Canyon will offer some of the best routes in wonderful and surreal settings. Dec 28, 2001
Taylor Morgan
Draper, UT
Taylor Morgan   Draper, UT
Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:

deseretnews.com/article/705…


I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.

Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on the southwest face of Mt. Superior, directly adjacent its summer trailhead/winter access points. This area is one of the most popular and treasured mountaineering, hiking, and backcountry skiing areas in Utah.

Furthermore, Mt. Superior is among the most beautiful and photographed areas in Utah, and the West. In fact, the 1976 Denver Olympic Bid Committee used a photo of Mt. Superior on its official bid packet.

While the proposed roller coaster will not directly inhibit mountaineering, hiking, or skiing, it will significantly diminish these pursuits and will be an embarrassing eyesore in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Utah residents and tourists visit our canyons to play in the mountains, not on amusement-park rides.

Please contact your member of the Salt Lake County Council to urge them to oppose Snowbird's plans. Jan 11, 2011
Anson Call
Provo, UT
Anson Call   Provo, UT
BEWARE of TICKS! My wife and I were in the lower parts of the canyon today. A few hours after we left, she discovered a tick on the back of her neck, just above her hairline. CREEPY and DANGEROUS! Ticks can carry some pretty nasty diseases, like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. It's something most people don't even think about, but they can be a real hazard - especially in the spring. Every time you leave the canyon, be sure to check your skin and scalp for these nasty buggers! Mar 30, 2013
. Mobes
MDI
. Mobes   MDI
just scanning the classics on the front page and notice that All chalk as well as trench warfare are not listed, in fact no 12s are. kind of strange since people travel great distances to do these routes. Jan 7, 2014
Shane Collins
Washington
Shane Collins   Washington
Hey, can anyone tell me how good cell service is at LCC? it looks crazy close to the city. Mar 19, 2014
zoso  
Depends on the carrier of course, but generally LCC is more cell friendly than BCC as it is a glacial canyon and therefore generally straighter. Certainly there are places where a signal is hard to find, but it's usually not too far of a walk to get one. Mar 19, 2014
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
BCC has been outfitted with cell relays (?) last year, I have yet to find a crag where I can't InstaBook spray about how much of a choss slayer I am. LCC is more hit or miss for me, line of sight to the valley usually works. Mar 20, 2014
d-know
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
Who's stumping all those trees around crescent parking and further up? Lots of survey ribbon tied on trees and swaths cut through the oak brush.

Anybody know what is going down? May 18, 2015
zoso  
Hmmm interesting. You should call the Forest Service about it. May 18, 2015
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Pretty sure it's the USFS -> facebook.com/SaltLakeClimbe… May 19, 2015
d-know
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
Thanks for the info, bozo.

Greg G comes thru with the goods. May 20, 2015
Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of

Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe… Jun 2, 2017
Hello, I lost one of my climbing shoes in the area about a month ago. It is an orange Butora Altura (narrow fit). Lit me know if you found it! Much appreciated. 4355134811 Jan 5, 2018