Elevation: 5,379 ft
GPS: 40.573, -111.777 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,541,269 total · 11,081/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.

SLCA Annual Fundraiser

Ice Climbing

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.

Getting There

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)

1,499 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Little Cottonwood Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Little Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 631
Pentapitch
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 471
Satan's Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 524
The Coffin
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 555
Sasquatch
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 392
The Green Adjective
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 343
Gordon's Hangover
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 100
S-Direct
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 392
Mexican Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 93
The Flakes
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 271
Bongeater
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 172
Equipment Overhang
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 107
Tick Fever
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 105
Enter the Dragon
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 90
Medussa
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 165
All Chalk And No Action
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pentapitch Pentapitch Area
 631
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Satan's Corner Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
 471
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Coffin Coffin Buttress
 524
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sasquatch Pentapitch Area
 555
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Green Adjective Green Adjective Gully
 392
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Gordon's Hangover Green Adjective Gully
 343
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
S-Direct Thumb Area
 100
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 7 pitches
Mexican Crack Crescent Crack Buttress
 392
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Flakes Gate Buttress > E Gate Buttress
 93
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Bongeater Bongeater Buttress
 271
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Equipment Overhang Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
 172
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tick Fever Wheeler-Newsome Wall
 107
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Enter the Dragon Dragon Arch
 105
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Medussa Hellgate Cliffs > Tower One
 90
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
All Chalk And No Action Green Adjective Gully
 165
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos