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Elevation: 5,379 ft 1,640 m
GPS: 40.5727, -111.77699
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,294,112 total · 14,879/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher
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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.

Ice Climbing Suggest change

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.

Getting There

Suggest change
From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)

2,167 Total Climbs

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Location: Little Cottonwood Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 344
● Twisted
Boulder
Boulders - Litt… > Secret Garden > Copperhead Boulder
V4 6B
 346
● Surfboard
Boulder
Boulders - Litt… > 5 Mile Boulders
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 753
● Beckey's Wall
Trad 3 pitches
Gate Buttress > Beckey's Wall Area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 476
● Squeeze My Lemon
Trad
Lizard Head Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 925
● Pentapitch
Trad 5 pitches
Pentapitch Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 632
● Satan's Corner
Trad 2 pitches
Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 712
● The Coffin
Trad
Coffin Buttress
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 388
● After The Fall
Trad
Green Adjective Gully
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 781
● Sasquatch
Trad
Pentapitch Area
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 522
● The Green Adjective
Trad 3 pitches
Green Adjective Gully
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 465
● Gordon's Hangover
Trad
Green Adjective Gully
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 526
● Mexican Crack
Trad
Crescent Crack Buttress
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 383
● Bongeater
Trad
Bongeater Buttress
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 258
● Equipment Overhang
Trad
Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 354
● Stiffler's Mom
Trad 12 pitches
Coal Pit Buttress
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Twisted Boulders - Litt… > Secret Garden > Copperhead Boulder
 344
V4 6B Boulder
● Surfboard Boulders - Litt… > 5 Mile Boulders
 346
V4 6B Boulder
● Beckey's Wall Gate Buttress > Beckey's Wall Area
 753
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Squeeze My Lemon Lizard Head Wall
 476
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Pentapitch Pentapitch Area
 925
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
● Satan's Corner Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
 632
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● The Coffin Coffin Buttress
 712
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● After The Fall Green Adjective Gully
 388
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Sasquatch Pentapitch Area
 781
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● The Green Adjective Green Adjective Gully
 522
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Gordon's Hangover Green Adjective Gully
 465
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Mexican Crack Crescent Crack Buttress
 526
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Bongeater Bongeater Buttress
 383
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Equipment Overhang Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
 258
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Stiffler's Mom Coal Pit Buttress
 354
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 12 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon »

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Photos

Alpenbock Loop Trail Network
Alpenbock Loop Trail Network
 9
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Green Adjective Gully in the Fall of 2005.
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the G…
 86
Hellgate Cliffs, LCC<br> Photo: Garrett Bentley
Hellgate Cliffs, LCC Photo: Garrett Bentley
 19
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiring to watch. This little one is showing me how to work the slabs.
I love running into these guys. They're so insp…
 21
Heeey Goat!
Heeey Goat!
 26
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...
 30
I love this place.
I love this place.
 16
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
 11
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
 12
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful canyon. (Cecret Lake)
Just some of the scenery up this beautiful cany…
 11
view from pentapitch!
view from pentapitch!
 12
Spring 2019
Spring 2019
 8

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