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Elevation: 5,379 ft
GPS: 40.573, -111.777 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,541,269 total · 11,081/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Page Updates (admin only)
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

LCC offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.

Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coal Pit Buttress.

On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.

The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.

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Ice Climbing

This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.

Getting There

From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)

1,499 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Cottonwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 631
● Pentapitch
Trad 5 pitches
Pentapitch Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 471
● Satan's Corner
Trad 2 pitches
Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 524
● The Coffin
Trad
Coffin Buttress
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 555
● Sasquatch
Trad
Pentapitch Area
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 392
● The Green Adjective
Trad 3 pitches
Green Adjective Gully
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 343
● Gordon's Hangover
Trad
Green Adjective Gully
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 100
● S-Direct
Trad 7 pitches
Thumb Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 392
● Mexican Crack
Trad
Crescent Crack Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 93
● The Flakes
Trad 2 pitches
Gate Buttress > E Gate Buttress
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 271
● Bongeater
Trad
Bongeater Buttress
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 172
● Equipment Overhang
Trad
Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 107
● Tick Fever
Trad
Wheeler-Newsome Wall
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 105
● Enter the Dragon
Trad 3 pitches
Dragon Arch
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 90
● Medussa
Sport
Hellgate Cliffs > Tower One
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 165
● All Chalk And No Action
Sport
Green Adjective Gully
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Pentapitch Pentapitch Area
 631
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
● Satan's Corner Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
 471
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
● The Coffin Coffin Buttress
 524
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Sasquatch Pentapitch Area
 555
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● The Green Adjective Green Adjective Gully
 392
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Gordon's Hangover Green Adjective Gully
 343
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● S-Direct Thumb Area
 100
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 7 pitches
● Mexican Crack Crescent Crack Buttress
 392
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● The Flakes Gate Buttress > E Gate Buttress
 93
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Bongeater Bongeater Buttress
 271
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Equipment Overhang Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area
 172
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Tick Fever Wheeler-Newsome Wall
 107
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Enter the Dragon Dragon Arch
 105
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
● Medussa Hellgate Cliffs > Tower One
 90
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● All Chalk And No Action Green Adjective Gully
 165
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon »

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Photos

Alpenbock Loop Trail Network
Alpenbock Loop Trail Network
 4
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the Green Adjective Gully in the Fall of 2005.
Clay Calhoon works a route at the edge of the G…
 72
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, fall in LCC...
 25
I love running into these guys. They're so inspiring to watch. This little one is showing me how to work the slabs.
I love running into these guys. They're so insp…
 16
Heeey Goat!
Heeey Goat!
 19
I love this place.
I love this place.
 14
Hellgate Cliffs, LCC<br> Photo: Garrett Bentley
Hellgate Cliffs, LCC Photo: Garrett Bentley
 11
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
Shot taken from the south side on the Super Slab
 7
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
Bushwhack Crack, LCC
 8
The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of AY OH!<br>
The Pres drilling on lead for First Ascent of A…
 6
sun set
sun set
 10
Connor Calderone climbing Schoolroom at 7 years old. (2006)
Connor Calderone climbing Schoolroom at 7 years…
 5

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