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Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
Areas in Little Cottonwood Canyon
| Elevation: | 5,379 ft | 1,640 m |
| GPS: |
40.5727, -111.77699 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 4,303,822 total · 14,319/month | |
| Shared By: | Eric Jacobsen on Oct 2, 2001 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
offers primarily quartz monzonite (white granite, essentially) with a few areas of limestone.
Trad, sport, bouldering, and ice climbing are all well-represented here. Most of the climbs are on the sunnier, north side of the canyon, but shade may be found for those hot summer days. In addition, north-facing classic routes are found on the south side of the canyon (see especially Pentapitch Area and Coalpit Buttress.
On the north side of the canyon, roughly from The Egg past the Gate Buttress, the rock is either owned by or the approaches to the tock cross land owned by the LDS Church. Be considerate when crossing/using these areas.
The Wasatch Resort about one mile up the canyon on the right (south) presents access problems to some of the crags on that side of the canyon as well.
Ice Climbing
This is a well known area. The Falcon guide has numerous routes listed, but realistically only 2 that come in real thick (at least that I've seen in the last 7 years of my ice climbing experience). There are a lot of other thin routes throughout the canyon. The 2 main lines are Scruffy Band and the Great White Icicle. The GW Icicle has always got a crowd! Last year I went up there at 10 at night for a late night run up the ice thinking the route would be free. There were still 2 groups just starting up the trail. This wouldn't be too bad, but the route is somewhat narrow, so anyone climbing above you will knock ice on you. So if you're looking for a remote, backcountry experience, this is not the area. Both Scruffy and GW icicle have easy approaches (10-30min) and the routes are moderate in difficulty (WI 2-3). So if you want a close easy climb with a crowd, these are probably good places to climb.
Getting There
From the I-215 beltway around Salt Lake, take the 6200 South exit at the southeast corner of the loop. Follow signs to the ski resorts and Big and Little Cottonwood canyon. Pass the left turn into BCC and continue on Wasatch Blvd (Route 210) for a few more miles. This road leads directly up into LCC. From the south, exit I-15 at 9000 South (Route 209). Head east as 209 becomes 9400 South and eventually hits Wasatch (210) at the mouth of LCC. Turn right and head up the canyon. (camping info#littlecottonwood)
Classic Climbing Routes at Little Cottonwood Canyon
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Twisted | Boulders - Litt… > Secret Garden > Copperhead Boulder |
|
V4 6B Boulder | |
| ● Surfboard | Boulders - Litt… > 5 Mile Boulders |
|
V4 6B Boulder | |
| ● Beckey's Wall | Gate Buttress > Beckey's Wall Area |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches | |
| ● Squeeze My Lemon | Lizard Head Wall |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad | |
| ● Pentapitch | Pentapitch Area |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches | |
| ● Satan's Corner | Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches | |
| ● The Coffin | Coffin Buttress |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| ● After The Fall | Green Adjective Gully |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| ● Sasquatch | Pentapitch Area |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● The Green Adjective | Green Adjective Gully |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches | |
| ● Gordon's Hangover | Green Adjective Gully |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Mexican Crack | Crescent Crack Buttress |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Bongeater | Bongeater Buttress |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | |
| ● Equipment Overhang | Gate Buttress > Dihedrals Area |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad | |
| ● Stiffler's Mom | Coalpit Buttress |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 12 pitches |
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Photos
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