All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwood Canyon

Hellgate Cliffs Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Hellgate Cliffs

Altaworld 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Crack of Noon 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

East Hellgate 0 / 58 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 58

Hellgate Condos 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Main Hellgate 10 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 16

Tower One 5 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24

Tower Three 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Tower Two 9 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	8,811 ft	2,686 m
GPS:	40.59022, -111.64673 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	287,056 total · 1,144/month
Shared By:	Bobby Hanson on Jun 23, 2005 · Updates
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

* No Longer Closed *

2024 avalanche mitigation efforts are complete; the closure is no longer in effect

Description

Mostly bolted climbing on steep limestone towers at alpine elevations. Bring a small rack as many of the routes do require gear placements. And bring a helmet! The Hellgate Cliffs are infamous for loose rock, especially in the early to mid summer. Watch for loose holds, and do not belay directly below your leader.

Most of the climbing is 5.9 and harder, though there are a few 5.7s here. Also, the Clamshell has seen recent developments as well, and is just up canyon.

Most routes require a two-rope rappel.

Getting There

Drive to Snowbird and keep going a little ways. The Hellgate Cliffs are the obvious white limestone towers on the north side of the canyon. Park at a pullout just up canyon and across the road from the Hellgate Condos. Walk up the dirt road to a gully just before the chain gate, and head up.

128 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hellgate Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

WI5- M5 Mod. Snow R 5 ● Bone Collector Mixed, Ice, Snow 4 pitches Main Hellgate
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 153 ● Hellgate Highway Sport 4 pitches Main Hellgate
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 137 ● Little Hellion Sport Tower One
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 154 ● Rat Bastards Sport E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 153 ● Minor Threat Sport E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 125 ● Devil's Advocate Sport, Alpine E Hellgate > Melting Mud West
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 204 ● Antidote Sport E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 108 ● Cause for Alarm Sport Tower One
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 130 ● Melting Into Madness Sport E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 122 ● Deja Vu Sport Tower Two
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 89 ● Brain Doner Sport E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 163 ● Medussa Sport Tower One
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 109 ● Public Nuisance Sport E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 36 ● Shelter from the Storm Sport 2 pitches Tower One
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 22 ● Pandora Trad Tower One