Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 8,815 ft
GPS: 40.59023, -111.64675
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 285,846 total · 1,258/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Jun 23, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Mostly bolted climbing on steep limestone towers at alpine elevations. Bring a small rack as many of the routes do require gear placements. And bring a helmet! The Hellgate Cliffs are infamous for loose rock, especially in the early to mid summer. Watch for loose holds, and do not belay directly below your leader.

Most of the climbing is 5.9 and harder, though there are a few 5.7s here. Also, the Clamshell has seen recent developments as well, and is just up canyon.

Most routes require a two-rope rappel.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive to Snowbird and keep going a little ways. The Hellgate Cliffs are the obvious white limestone towers on the north side of the canyon. Park at a pullout just up canyon and across the road from the Hellgate Condos. Walk up the dirt road to a gully just before the chain gate, and head up.

126 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Hellgate Cliffs Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Hellgate Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5- M5 Mod. Snow R
 4
Bone Collector
Mixed, Ice, Snow 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 125
Hellgate Highway
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 125
Little Hellion
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 140
Rat Bastards
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 120
Wisky Bench
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 118
Devil's Advocate
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 183
Antidote
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 94
Cause for Alarm
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 128
Melting Into Madness
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 110
Deja Vu
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 83
Brain Doner
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 144
Medussa
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 102
Public Nuisance
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Shelter from the Storm
Sport 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
Pandora
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bone Collector Main Hellgate
 4
WI5- M5 Mod. Snow R Mixed, Ice, Snow 4 pitches
Hellgate Highway Main Hellgate
 125
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 4 pitches
Little Hellion Tower One
 125
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rat Bastards E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 140
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wisky Bench E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 120
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Devil's Advocate E Hellgate > Melting Mud West
 118
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Antidote E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 183
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cause for Alarm Tower One
 94
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Melting Into Madness E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 128
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Deja Vu Tower Two
 110
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Brain Doner E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 83
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Medussa Tower One
 144
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Public Nuisance E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 102
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Shelter from the Storm Tower One
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Pandora Tower One
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Hellgate Cliffs »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading