Elevation: 8,815 ft
GPS: 40.59, -111.647 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 190,902 total · 1,028/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Jun 23, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Mostly bolted climbing on steep limestone towers at alpine elevations. Bring a small rack as many of the routes do require gear placements. And bring a helmet! The Hellgate Cliffs are infamous for loose rock, especially in the early to mid summer. Watch for loose holds, and do not belay directly below your leader.

Most of the climbing is 5.9 and harder, though there are a few 5.7s here. Also, the Clamshell has seen recent developments as well, and is just up canyon.

Most routes require a two-rope rappel.

Getting There

Drive to Snowbird and keep going a little ways. The Hellgate Cliffs are the obvious white limestone towers on the north side of the canyon. Park at a pullout just up canyon and across the road from the Hellgate Condos. Walk up the dirt road to a gully just before the chain gate, and head up.

113 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Hellgate Cliffs Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Hellgate Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 72
Hellgate Highway
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 118
Los Crudos
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 98
Little Hellion
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 117
Rat Bastards
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 119
Minor Threat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 97
Wisky Bench
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 89
Devil's Advocate
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 151
Antidote
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 100
Dayglow Abortions
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 108
Melting Into Madness
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 69
Deja Vu
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 63
Cotton Mouth King
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 68
Brain Doner
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 97
Medussa
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 79
Public Nuisance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hellgate Highway Main Hellgate
 72
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 4 pitches
Los Crudos E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 118
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Little Hellion Tower One
 98
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rat Bastards E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 117
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Minor Threat E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 119
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wisky Bench E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 97
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Devil's Advocate E Hellgate > Melting Mud West
 89
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Antidote E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 151
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dayglow Abortions E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 100
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Melting Into Madness E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 108
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Deja Vu Tower Two
 69
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cotton Mouth King E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 63
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Brain Doner E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 68
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Medussa Tower One
 97
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Public Nuisance E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 79
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hellgate Cliffs »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos