Elevation: 8,815 ft
GPS: 40.59, -111.647 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Jun 23, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details

2018 Temporary Closure

Current status.​​​

UDOT has begun construction of eight Remote Avalanche Control Systems (RACS) permanently installed in the starting zones above the Hellgate cliffs on May 21, 2018. In the interest of public and worker safety, the entire construction zone will be closed to public access for the duration of the project. This includes the runout zones below where rock fall, both natural and work related, may impact.

The climbing and construction areas are located on private land and at the request of the landowner, will be CLOSED. These areas include, all of the Main Slidepath Area, Main Wall, Tower 3, 2, 1, Hell is for Children, and Altaworld.

The Condo Wall and The Clamshell will remain OPEN for the entire project.

The projected completion date and subsequent reopening of the climbing areas is planned for mid-October 2018. Please respect the closure and stay clear of the area.

UDOT was mandated by the US Army to reduce their dependency on artillery and to eliminate the practice of shooting overhead of inhabited buildings. Devices such as Gazex and Wyssen exploders can reduce the avalanche threat without the risk of shrapnel. The eight exploders in Hellgate will serve that purpose as well as increase the efficiency of the control efforts. They will be fully operational for the winter of 2018-2019. This is a public safety decision and it’s imperative that climbers stay clear of this area for their safety and to regain access to the zone in 2019.

For more information regarding the closure and the project go to: udot.utah.gov/avalanche

May to October 2018 Closures

Description

Mostly bolted climbing on steep limestone towers at alpine elevations. Bring a small rack as many of the routes do require gear placements. And bring a helmet! The Hellgate Cliffs are infamous for loose rock, especially in the early to mid summer. Watch for loose holds, and do not belay directly below your leader.

Most of the climbing is 5.9 and harder, though there are a few 5.7s here. Also, the Clamshell has seen recent developments as well, and is just up canyon.

Most routes require a two-rope rappel.

Getting There

Drive to Snowbird and keep going a little ways. The Hellgate Cliffs are the obvious white limestone towers on the north side of the canyon. Park at a pullout just up canyon and across the road from the Hellgate Condos. Walk up the dirt road to a gully just before the chain gate, and head up.

104 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hellgate Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 97
Los Crudos
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
Little Hellion
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 92
Rat Bastards
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 95
Minor Threat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Wisky Bench
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 71
Devil's Advocate
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 121
Antidote
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Dayglow Abortions
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Pocket City
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Repeat and Offend
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 81
Melting Into Madness
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
Deja Vu
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 54
Brain Doner
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 66
Medussa
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 58
Public Nuisance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Los Crudos E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 97
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Little Hellion Tower One
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rat Bastards E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 92
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Minor Threat E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 95
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wisky Bench E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Devil's Advocate E Hellgate > Melting Mud West
 71
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Antidote E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 121
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dayglow Abortions E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pocket City E Hellgate > Goat Gully Wall
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Repeat and Offend E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Melting Into Madness E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 81
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Deja Vu Tower Two
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Brain Doner E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 54
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Medussa Tower One
 66
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Public Nuisance E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 58
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hellgate Cliffs »

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