Elevation: 8,815 ft
GPS: 40.59, -111.647 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 234,946 total · 1,189/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Jun 23, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Mostly bolted climbing on steep limestone towers at alpine elevations. Bring a small rack as many of the routes do require gear placements. And bring a helmet! The Hellgate Cliffs are infamous for loose rock, especially in the early to mid summer. Watch for loose holds, and do not belay directly below your leader.

Most of the climbing is 5.9 and harder, though there are a few 5.7s here. Also, the Clamshell has seen recent developments as well, and is just up canyon.

Most routes require a two-rope rappel.

Getting There

Drive to Snowbird and keep going a little ways. The Hellgate Cliffs are the obvious white limestone towers on the north side of the canyon. Park at a pullout just up canyon and across the road from the Hellgate Condos. Walk up the dirt road to a gully just before the chain gate, and head up.

116 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hellgate Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 86
Hellgate Highway
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 125
Rat Bastards
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 113
Little Hellion
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 126
Minor Threat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 106
Wisky Bench
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 101
Devil's Advocate
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 162
Antidote
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
Dayglow Abortions
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 79
Cause for Alarm
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 67
Repeat and Offend
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 111
Melting Into Madness
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 89
Deja Vu
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 75
Brain Doner
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 113
Medussa
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 87
Public Nuisance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hellgate Highway Main Hellgate
 86
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 4 pitches
Rat Bastards E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 125
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Little Hellion Tower One
 113
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Minor Threat E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 126
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wisky Bench E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 106
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Devil's Advocate E Hellgate > Melting Mud West
 101
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Antidote E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 162
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dayglow Abortions E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cause for Alarm Tower One
 79
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Repeat and Offend E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 67
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Melting Into Madness E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 111
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Deja Vu Tower Two
 89
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Brain Doner E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 75
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Medussa Tower One
 113
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Public Nuisance E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall
 87
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hellgate Cliffs »

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