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Areas in Hellgate Cliffs

Altaworld 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Crack of Noon 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
East Hellgate 0 / 48 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 48
Hellgate Condos 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Main Hellgate 5 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Tower One 3 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Tower Three 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Tower Two 8 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14

Description

Mostly bolted climbing on steep limestone towers at alpine elevations. Bring a small rack as many of the routes do require gear placements. And bring a helmet! The Hellgate Cliffs are infamous for loose rock, especially in the early to mid summer. Watch for loose holds, and do not belay directly below your leader.

Most of the climbing is 5.9 and harder, though there are a few 5.7s here. Also, the Clamshell has seen recent developments as well, and is just up canyon.

Most routes require a two-rope rappel.
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Drive to Snowbird and keep going a little ways. The Hellgate Cliffs are the obvious white limestone towers on the north side of the canyon. Park at a pullout just up canyon and across the road from the Hellgate Condos. Walk up the dirt road to a gully just before the chain gate, and head up.

103 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hellgate Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Los Crudos
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Hellion
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rat Bastards
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Minor Threat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wisky Bench
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Social Realism
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devil's Advocate
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Antidote
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dayglow Abortions
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Martinez Mind Melter
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deja Vu
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brain Doner
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Medussa
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Public Nuisance
Sport
Los Crudos E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Little Hellion Tower One 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rat Bastards E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Minor Threat E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wisky Bench E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Social Realism Tower Two 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Devil's Advocate E Hellgate > Melting Mud West 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Antidote E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dayglow Abortions E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Melting Into Madness E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Martinez Mind Melter E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Deja Vu Tower Two 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Brain Doner E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Medussa Tower One 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Public Nuisance E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hellgate Cliffs »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance will be doing some fixed anchor replacement over the next two weeks at Hellgate - to start at Tower One tonight/tomorrow. Please be patient with our fixed lines and temporarily closed routes. If you want to help with this effort- consider donating to the SLCA to help purchase stainless steel hardware. You can donate here: saltlakeclimbers.org/donate/ Sep 12, 2017
Found some shoes by tower one today, describe em and I'll get them back to you! Jun 29, 2017
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
Boissal, I wish I saw your note a year ago. I have no affiliation with or personal gain from Greg's map. I simply copied and pasted the note, since it seems most climbers don't know where to get a map.

In fact, I was at Hellgate again today, and I met with multiple groups. None of them had a map, and I answered the questions for everyone. Get the map, $10 is nothing, and it will be worth your while to be informed. Jul 21, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Might want to mention that you are - or not - affiliated with Greg since your triple endorsement makes you sound very eager.
That being said I agree, the topo is good and opens up a world of new possibilities. Aug 15, 2010
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
Stop staring at the wall trying to figure everything out. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites. Aug 14, 2010
Greg Martinez
SLC UTAH
Greg Martinez   SLC UTAH
I separated West Melting Mud climbs from the South facing climbs & weirdo & coo coo`s nest are not on these walls at all.there west of fossils from hell on main wall. Sep 30, 2008
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
Grab the updated guide at IME in Salt lake. Proceds go to bolting fund. Great job to Mr. Martinez and anyone else involved with the development of the area. Enjoyed my time there. Sep 13, 2008
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
If no one minds, I am also happy to correct the spelling and capitalization in route descriptions. I would never change anyone's entries, but I am willing to be an editor. I won the Grand Forks county spelling bee in North Dakota way back in the day, so I am uniquely qualified(though maybe in a bad way). Sep 13, 2007
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
Cool, I was thinking about this last week as well and wondered about the best way to revise an area into better subsections. Thanks for taking this on James and Andrew for moving things around. I too think it nice to see all the new activity and there are some good routes going in. It got me off my butt to start sniffing around for the first time in years. Better route descriptions especially with references to routes that are already in the book(s) would be helpful. Also be great if folks spell checked the entries as well. This is one of the few sites that can do it for you. We should take advantage of it. Sep 12, 2007
Yes, I will try to get on it in the next couple of days. Andrew....that does sound like the best way to do it if it is OK with Gregorio.
As the new areas pop up, you can start sliding the routes into the correct slots. I won't delete anything, as that will no doubt really screw it up! Thanks
JG Sep 12, 2007
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Sounds good to me. Bobby wouldn't mind if this main area description disappears anyway, so lets do this:

Someone(James?) create a brand new Hellgate overview area, and then add new empty areas underneath it for the various sub areas. At that point, i'll move the route descriptions to the proper places, and y'all can yell at me when i get one wrong.

And Greg, would you mind cleaning up the route descriptions, or would you mind if volunteers take over the route and add better descriptions?

Thanks Sep 12, 2007
"Mountain Project, I believe, is first and foremost an online guidebook. One line route descriptions without topos thrown into the mix where they subsequently are listed alphabetically for a single area with 50-60 1/2 pitch routes.... well, it makes it nearly useless or practically impossible for getting the climber to the route. If beta is so brief as to be vague at best, what is the point of reporting it at all? On the other hand, if the reporter really would rather not have other climbers find the route or the area, again, why report it at all? (please refrain from just taking up space!)"

I think James has a really great point. Seeing lots of ooo style descritions... not so fun. Greg - we really love your work and the routes you're putting up. Thank you for all the stuff you are doing out there. Its why we bought the topo and spread the word. Please keep up the good work. Sep 11, 2007
I vote for better organisation and separating the routes on Main Hellgate and the three Hellgate towers from East Hellgate (formerly known as the Clamshell). East Hellgate has been grid bolted to the point that using this site with all the routes in all the various Hellgate areas in ONE area is extremely confusing. By making a separate area for East Hellgate which would include the Melting Mud Wall and everything East of and including A CLOUD IN THE SKY will be alot more helpful for people trying to navigate themselves around the place or hoping to glean beta from this web site.

It would be as if all the routes between Green A Gully and Beckey's Wall was just under Gate Buttress with no distinction between the 6 or so separate areas that actually exist.

Mountain Project, I believe, is first and foremost an online guidebook. One line route descriptions without topos thrown into the mix where they subsequently are listed alphabetically for a single area with 50-60 1/2 pitch routes.... well, it makes it nearly useless or practically impossible for getting the climber to the route. If beta is so brief as to be vague at best, what is the point of reporting it at all? On the other hand, if the reporter really would rather not have other climbers find the route or the area, again, why report it at all? (please refrain from just taking up space!)

In conclusion, I vote for Main Hellgate, Tower One, Tower Two, Tower Three, East Hellgate (may be further subdivided to include the individual named walls at East Hellgate such as Melting Mud Wall, Goat Gully Wall, etc
Does anyone agree? Will someone organise it better? How about using spell check, at least on the route names?....nobody is more dyslexic than me, so it's not a bad tool to use. Sep 11, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Where has everyone been this summer? Hellgate has been my favorite hot weather crag this season, and I hardly ever see another party up there, even on weekends. Really good, steep limestone sport climbing in LCC and the place is deserted... Aug 20, 2007

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