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Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

AltaTraz S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Public Nuisance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80110 ft
FA: Tyler, Greg, Aaron, Zack
Page Views: 3,751 total, 29/month
Shared By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Stay on the trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A really fun .10 with lots of really big jugs interspersed between nice pockets and crimps. This has two pitches and the first has two variations - one in the dihedral and one on the face but I'm not sure how those guys meant for it to go. I just know if you link both pitches together in one long pitch its a really fun climb. Just enough jugs and rests to avoid being .11

Location

a shallow dihedral on the middle to left of the Far East Gate.

Protection

10 or 20 (or 21?) draws with some being long runners if you want to link both pitches, a 70m rope gets up and back down to the ground.

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Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Yeah there are three variations that break off the first four bolts. After the first four bolts are clipped, go left for Repeat and Offend (10b), straight up for Melting in Madness (1st pitch, 10d) and the Bird is the word (2nd pitch, 10d), or go right onto another route. I haven't climbed the route to the right yet. Sep 5, 2016
There definitely is a route to the right. Climbed it thinking it was Repeat and Offend and thought it was a bit harder than 10b. I'd say upper end of 10c however it might be a 10d if going off the same rating system that Melting Into Madness was judged off of. Aug 24, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
There is now another route sharing the start to this route and going right at the 4th bolt. Nice route, maybe 10c? Jun 5, 2015
Ben Folsom  
 
As Ryan said, really nice as one long pitch. A 70m gets you down no problem. Aug 7, 2010
Alec LaLonde  
 
Nice climb -- business is getting past the hump above the dihedral. Felt a bit easier than .10d, though I didn't do the second pitch. Jul 10, 2008
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.10d
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.10d
The second pitch is named The Bird is the Word and is rated 5.10d, just like Melting Into Madness; however, it is still best to be linked as one long pitch. Jul 12, 2007