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Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

AltaTraz S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Public Nuisance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Greg Martinez, Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 2,285 total, 18/month
Shared By: tenesmus on May 9, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Stay on the trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Sustained edge and pocket pulling. Much easier once you find the good pockets but still there in your face. I really like this one because its nice and sustained.

Location

Right of the shallow dihedral for Melting Into Madness

Protection

11 draws plus two for the anchors.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Great pump, I had to really work for this onsight. came very close to blowing it in the upper section. Keep your eyes on the foot work and the crimps will present themselves. Definitely not PG13, if the bolts were any closer I would struggle to avoid z clipping. 5.11 Jul 15, 2014
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
Having bolted with Greg for years now I wouldn't consider anything he puts up as PG13, he's one of the safest router developers I've climbed with. May 15, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11c
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11c
Not loose or chossy... really fun route with two good sporty cruxes requiring some cool footwork. Pretty sustained. Shares anchors with Doner. Super fun and definitely would recommend for those climbing in the upper .11 grade. Oct 2, 2011
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c PG13
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c PG13
Did this climb again today. I was hoping this whole area would clean up more this year, but it seems way chossier this year than last. I broke off one of the big flakes near the top. Luckily, it is close to another solid flake, and it shouldn't change the grade, but don't stand below climbers on this wall. Jul 21, 2011
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c PG13
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c PG13
Boisall said it well. This was more sustained than the 11.b that shares the same anchor. What I like most about this climb is that it has a good mix of tiny pockets, crimps, and lie backs.

Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites. Aug 14, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11c
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11c
All the moves are easier than on the 11b to the right but it's more sustained. Dynamic moves at the start then a really cool crux sequence followed by a whole lot of keeping-it-together climbing.
Best on Melting Mud? Jul 17, 2009
Greg Martinez
SLC UTAH
  5.11c
Greg Martinez   SLC UTAH
  5.11c
11 bolts & anchors Sep 4, 2007