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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Pat McInerney, Scott Lockart and Erik Paul, August 1993
Page Views: 5,222 total · 40/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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As for all Hellgate areas Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

One of the best sport routes in Little Cottonwood. Starts out slabby, turns vertical and then steepens for the steepest .11 climbing I've seen anywhere.

Location

The left side of the the main cave on Tower 1

Protection

draws, a few long runners, 60M rope. I used a .75 camalot in the middle and its easy to place. Some might want another hand sized piece but don't make too much drag. Please wear a helmet.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Most climbers will prefer 2 pieces of supplemental finger sized gear in the middle finger flakes section. Standard runners placed in this section on both the bolts and gear render the above rope drag complaints moot. Supplemental gear is never nessesarry until it is. A fall, slip, or rock-break(!) without the cam/s would be devestating and the climbing here is slickery 5.10. Sep 12, 2017
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I didn't feel like the .75 was needed and didn't use it. The moves are exposed but you are climbing jugs. There's already enough drag without sticking another piece in there. +1 that runners would be helpful (especially on bolt 6). Jun 16, 2017
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Drop Medussa in American Fork and its also the best 5.11 there! Aug 29, 2016
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.11c
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.11c
Really fun climb, but I definitely struggled near the top and getting to the chains. .75 camelot was very nice to have before the 6th bolt. Very heady and super exposed. Aug 31, 2014
split161
  5.11b/c
split161  
  5.11b/c
fight the pump on the flake...fun! Sep 7, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
it wanders, has semi bad drag, weird bolting, lots of ledgy no hands rests, and the fact that it requires one cam is strange, but I can say it was by far the most fun sport climb i've done in LCC. Lieback the massive flake at the top to glory! Jul 10, 2013
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
Absolutely stunning. The adrenaline really starts at the top. The exposure is insane. Aug 4, 2012
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
One of the best routes around hands down. So fun! Aug 2, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b/c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11b/c
Tricky exit moves figuring which way to go and not blowing the lead. Apr 23, 2012
Great exit move! Jun 17, 2010
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
Really good. Use runners on bolts 4 and 6 to reduce drag. The .75 camalot is nice to have. The top is wild! Jul 14, 2007

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