Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Gordon Douglass, Frank Ray, Tad Swarner and Gary Olsen, 1988
Page Views: 3,463 total · 19/month
Shared By: Charles Konopa on Sep 9, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


72 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A great sport route on the sunny side of tower 2 that starts on the eastern part of the flat area. Two big boulders and some pine trees give the belayer shade. Climb up a crack, putting a cool lieback in between the first and second bolts and continue up fun rock. At bolt number 8, angle towards the crack to your LEFT. Ignore the two bolts toward your right. I did this and found a dead end 20 feet below some other route's anchors. After having followed the correct crack straight up, pull over the bulge on some thin holds and side pulls; you will now see the chain anchors for the first time, slightly off to your right. Use at least a 60 meter rope. Have your belayer tie into the other end. A 60 meter rope will leave you and your belayer on your tip-toes to untie. A 59 meter rope will leave you one and a half feet short.

Protection

12 bolts and then a 2 chain anchor

Location

Left of Insane in the Brain.

Photos