Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tower Two

Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desp-ArĂȘte S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Insane in the Brain S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass, Frank Ray, Tad Swarner and Gary Olsen, 1988
Page Views: 2,369 total · 16/month
Shared By: Charles Konopa on Sep 9, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


43 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A great sport route on the sunny side of tower 2 that starts on the eastern part of the flat area. Two big boulders and some pine trees give the belayer shade. Climb up a crack, putting a cool lieback in between the first and second bolts and continue up fun rock. At bolt number 8, angle towards the crack to your LEFT. Ignore the two bolts toward your right. I did this and found a dead end 20 feet below some other route's anchors. After having followed the correct crack straight up, pull over the bulge on some thin holds and side pulls; you will now see the chain anchors for the first time, slightly off to your right. Use at least a 60 meter rope. Have your belayer tie into the other end. A 60 meter rope will leave you and your belayer on your tip-toes to untie. A 59 meter rope will leave you one and a half feet short.

Protection

12 bolts and then a 2 chain anchor

Location

Left of Insane in the Brain.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
If you are using a .75 before the first bolt you may be missing it. The first bolt blends into the lower black wall to the left of the crack and is easy to miss. My buddy would have climbed past it if I didn't point it out when he was head level with it. while a .5-.75 could back up the one move to this bolt, I don't think it is really necessary if you are comfortable with Sport 10s.

Feeling strong and wanting to break into the 11 grade? give this one a go, pretty cruiser for an 11 but you will still need to work for this "popular" climb. I guess the nice thing about the reality of the ruckman description of it as popular, is that the climb is pretty dang clean, (at least the day I was on it) good friction and no loose rocks. As mentioned above also seems like a good warm up/prep for stronger climbers wanting to send some of the more thuggy 11's at hellgate. Aug 2, 2016
zak
Salt Lake City
zak   Salt Lake City
A .75 camalot is useful before the 1st bolt Sep 6, 2011
Jerome Sharpe
Wanship, UT
Jerome Sharpe   Wanship, UT
To clarify: From left to right:

DejaVu, 5.11a

Insane in the Brian, 5.11b/c

Whiskey and Weed Power, 5.11b Aug 14, 2011
Classic Hellgate. Oct 12, 2008
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
good route, short crux, felt easy for the grade. There are 3 routes on the wall, deja vu is on the left, an .11b/c in the middle, .11b on the right (if deja vu is .11a, the right hand route is 11b, I'd say). Get Greg's topo at IME for all the new routes in the area, they've done a lot! The middle route is also really good, and even pumpier than the other two. Still loose rock on deja vu, I knocked a big one off with my foot without even realizing it, and I'm usually pretty careful on the hellgate stuff. Hopefully that was the last of it, since the whole route seemed to have good rock. Jun 17, 2007
Duncan Murray
Salt Lake City
Duncan Murray   Salt Lake City
Whiskey and Weed Power, 5.11a*** Jan 26, 2007
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
This is a really fun route as is the newer one to the right of it. Anyone now the name of that one? I'd say its about the same grade. Aug 18, 2006
tenesmus  
 
Fun route - makes a nice warmup for Medussa and going into the cave. Sep 14, 2005