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Routes in Tower Two

Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desp-ArĂȘte S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Insane in the Brain S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: 8/27/04 Greg M, Clark O
Page Views: 209 total, 2/month
Shared By: Boissal on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description (2 cruxes up high)

WWP is another good Martinez route on the right side of Tower 2. The theme is pretty consistent with the other lines up there: long, pumpy, good holds to a devious crux bulge then endure the pump to the chains.
The crux of this one awaits at the 5th bolt with strange undercling moves to smallish crimps and - gasp! - no feet! A couple of bolts of this nonsense brings you to the sweetest pockets at HelmetGate. Catch a rest there and fire the steep second half looking for more hidden pockets to your left.
Long draws are useful on the bolts in the middle.

One can supposedly reach extreme levels of pump by mantling above the anchors on a dirty shelf, bumping the grade to an unprecedented 5.11. Don't do it, there's one of those cool mini-saplings living there and it doesn't need the disturbance. If you do take pics of the belly-flopping downclimb or gnar-jump that will necessarily follow.

Location

This is the furthest bolted line on the right side of the face of Tower 2. Start below the boulder platform on black rock about 10' R of Insane ITB and 20' R of Deja-Vu. Then go up.

Protection

13 bolts to 2 bolts chain anchor.

Photos

Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Tightly bolted. I certainly didn't feel like the crux was at the 5th bolt, but instead just before the chains. The massive buckets on the upper half provide an opportunity to shake out the pump and regain the requisite energy to make the chains. The problem is, the buckets disappear at the last bolt, and you have to find the right edges to make the chains. Classic. Jul 23, 2013
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Climbed this the other day. It was a great route! Ill have to come back and red point it sometime soon. Damn thing was tricky. There are more bolts on it than you can see at first glance, I was short and had to back clean. Beware the last pockets, they are totally not as good as you would want. Sep 30, 2011
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11b
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11b
Did anyone leave a camera at the base of this climb today? Message me with the type and color and we can coordinate it's return. Sep 18, 2011
Jerome Sharpe
Wanship, UT
Jerome Sharpe   Wanship, UT
Sustained and pumpy. Aug 14, 2011
Eric Godfrey
slc, ut
Eric Godfrey   slc, ut
Pretty consistant climbing. Crimpers in between underclings and jugs. Those last couple moves to the chains are rough when you're pumped if you are going for the redpoint Jul 24, 2009