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Routes in Tower Two

Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desp-Arête S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Insane in the Brain S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Dave Madera 1990
Page Views: 543 total, 5/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 22, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Although Cave Man is a step down in quality from the routes to the right (Déjà Vu, Insane/Reality Check, and W&W Power) because of a significant patch of choss above the “cave” near the top, it is the longest pitch of the bunch and it has some great movement over airy terrain. It shouldn't be missed if you got a thing for Hellgate limestone.

Cave Man starts maybe 15 feet left of Déjà Vu on easy ground (5.8ish) protected by a few solid cams in pods, until the first bolt is reached about 35 feet up. When we climbed it (8/5/11), two of the hangers had loose nuts which we could only hand tighten; a wrench would be useful. Rated 11d in Ruckmans' guide, but no way.

Location

Located left of Deja Vu and a few feet right of Klein Girls (the one bolt slab/crack).

Protection

Eleven bolts to Desp-Arete anchors. Take 3-4 cams from .75" to 2.5", then it's draws the rest of the way. Rap into the gully between Towers 2 and 3 (a single 60m will work, barely).

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Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
The comment about the bolts still applies. Most of them can be hand tightened and look like some shitty 5/16" contraptions you wouldn't want to whip on.

I'd say getting established in the steep black rock at the 2nd bolt is solid 11+ if you're under 6' tall. The lack of feet makes the reach for the shelf damn near impossible unless you get into some serious ninja footwork. Moving from that spot is probably the crux, cryptic and pumpy - don't tunnel vision, deviating from the bolt line a bit seems mandatory. Take a breather at the cave and good luck taking a stab at the many options for the last few bolts: I found numerous opportunities to blow it on dead-end sequences.

We started on The Shadow. Suggested gear would be BD cams from .4 to .75, largish nuts (#10 or #11 BD) and maybe a #2 camalot. There's a great spot for a .4 between the first 2 bolts, you might want to bring two if you plan on being scared by the mantel. Jun 21, 2012