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Routes in Tower Two

Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desp-Arête S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Insane in the Brain S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Gary Olsen, Stuart Ruckman and Chris Pendleton, 1988
Page Views: 1,256 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Aug 2, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Exciting arête climbing that keeps coming at you. Sure, you get a little rest atop the pedestal, but this route can be deceptively difficult. The crux is definitely after the sixth clip (first bolt after the two pins). Some desperate, committing moves will get you to the top, if they hold. Relatively clean for the Hellgate.

Location

On the arete of Tower Two. A 60 meter rope will get you down to the ramp inside the "Shooting Gallery" between Towers Two and Three. Otherwise, climb to the top of the tower and use the Anchors for Social Realism to get down.

Protection

8 bolts, 3 pins and a 2 bolt anchor with slings. Bring 11 QDs and a helmet.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
  5.10d
bheller   SL UT
  5.10d
Strange no one has mentioned the run-out above the 3rd bolt (originally a pin) that rambles 20 feet up a loose corner with a finger crack and tops out on a chossy pillar. This can be adequately protected with 2 x .5 camalots and runners.

Also, you can lower/rap from the anchors at the top of the route to the starting belay stance with a 70m rope, but it's the definition of a rope stretcher. Please discuss the route length with your belayer and knot the end of your rope prior to climbing this route. Sep 12, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10d PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10d PG13
I think the crux is maybe a bit harder than 10b. And as wilcox states it would be a bad place to fall in which my opinion warrants the higher grad. Thanks to whoever cleaned up the anchors! Jul 10, 2008
Decent route, falling at the crux could be ugly, easy to hit the pillar below. Jul 2, 2008
Allen Sanderson
Oootah
  5.10a/b
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
  5.10a/b
Sometime this year the anchors got cleaned up. You can rap off into the gully with a 60m rope it just barely makes it down. Rapping anyother way will not make it to the ground.

The route is easier than 10d and the bolts are nicely spaced - the way they should be. Aug 13, 2007
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10d PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10d PG13
We always belay from the top of Social Realism - great views! A single 60m gets you down from there. Jun 14, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
  5.10d
David Shiembob   slc, ut
  5.10d
Fun route for sure. The bolts are "well spaced", so expect some sizable falls if you blow it in the wrong spot.

Also, the anchor is a mess of realy old slings going through a couple of bolts. Someone should cut the webbing that's there and replace it, or put in chains? I also couldn't lower off the route, it was too long even for a 60m. I had to belay my partner up, and then a single rope rap barely made it to the gully, so be aware of that. Great climbing though. Sep 12, 2006