Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Gary Olsen, Stuart Ruckman and Chris Pendleton, 1988
Page Views: 1,322 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Aug 2, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Exciting arête climbing that keeps coming at you. Sure, you get a little rest atop the pedestal, but this route can be deceptively difficult. The crux is definitely after the sixth clip (first bolt after the two pins). Some desperate, committing moves will get you to the top, if they hold. Relatively clean for the Hellgate.


On the arete of Tower Two. A 60 meter rope will get you down to the ramp inside the "Shooting Gallery" between Towers Two and Three. Otherwise, climb to the top of the tower and use the Anchors for Social Realism to get down.


8 bolts, 3 pins and a 2 bolt anchor with slings. Bring 11 QDs and a helmet.


David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
Fun route for sure. The bolts are "well spaced", so expect some sizable falls if you blow it in the wrong spot.

Also, the anchor is a mess of realy old slings going through a couple of bolts. Someone should cut the webbing that's there and replace it, or put in chains? I also couldn't lower off the route, it was too long even for a 60m. I had to belay my partner up, and then a single rope rap barely made it to the gully, so be aware of that. Great climbing though. Sep 12, 2006
Stan Pitcher
  5.10d PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10d PG13
We always belay from the top of Social Realism - great views! A single 60m gets you down from there. Jun 14, 2007
Allen Sanderson
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
Sometime this year the anchors got cleaned up. You can rap off into the gully with a 60m rope it just barely makes it down. Rapping anyother way will not make it to the ground.

The route is easier than 10d and the bolts are nicely spaced - the way they should be. Aug 13, 2007
Decent route, falling at the crux could be ugly, easy to hit the pillar below. Jul 2, 2008
Stan Pitcher
  5.10d PG13
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10d PG13
I think the crux is maybe a bit harder than 10b. And as wilcox states it would be a bad place to fall in which my opinion warrants the higher grad. Thanks to whoever cleaned up the anchors! Jul 10, 2008
bheller   SL UT
Strange no one has mentioned the run-out above the 3rd bolt (originally a pin) that rambles 20 feet up a loose corner with a finger crack and tops out on a chossy pillar. This can be adequately protected with 2 x .5 camalots and runners.

Also, you can lower/rap from the anchors at the top of the route to the starting belay stance with a 70m rope, but it's the definition of a rope stretcher. Please discuss the route length with your belayer and knot the end of your rope prior to climbing this route. Sep 12, 2017