Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tower Two

Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desp-ArĂȘte S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Insane in the Brain S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mugs Stump, Mark Whitton 1988
Page Views: 92 total, 2/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 7, 2013 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A bold, exhilarating route up some fairly solid rock, this one may have you screaming "mommy!" Not Bosched Up is the test-piece moderate of Tower Two. Put up around the dawn of heavy, rap-bolting, the FA certainly kept it real. As committing as it is bare, this line requires a solid head and creative gear placements, expect long run outs and marginal to no protection. I don't know where you draw the line between R and X, but a slight breeze my blow this one more towards the latter.

Route finding is also a crux, so here's some direction: Begin about 5-7 feet right of Radiation Babies on a solid, black slab. Start with a long, strenuous, run out up a small dihedral feature, and aim for a thin, shallow crack. Continue up the weakness and break left of the wall's first roof. Climb up a steep face to a small ledge and rest. Continue up the face using pockets, passing a hidden "Hallelujah" pin and work towards the middle of the upper roof. Its here where you'll find the routes best protection, so use em' if you got them! Skirt left across the slab (crux) and gain the route's final thrutch up a broken dihedral to the tower's top. The rock deteriorates the higher you go, but you'll find best climbing and stone if you continue straight up. Building a belay at the top of the tower is not recommended, set a directional and traverse left to the belay of Social Realism.

Multifaceted, you'll probably spend a good amount of time on this line. With difficult route finding and some questionable rock, Not Bosched Up is a very slow lead, bring a patient belayer and plenty of confidence.

Protection

Three pins and a single rack up to 4 inches with stoppers. Bring a large selection of long draws, slings and maybe even a few double runners. The protection at the roof is far right of the climbing, so use two runners or a double runners to reduce drag. The protection on this line is minimum at best and hard to read, use your imagination.

Location

Not Bosched Up is found about 20 feet up Tower 2 on the gulley's right side. Its the first swatch of solid, black rock you come too. The route starts in the left-side weakness just below a shallow dihedral/mini roof feature and is about 5 feet left of the start for From Trilobites to Lycra Tights

Photos

Just a bit of history.
1988 was America's first international climbing comp at Snowbird on the side of the Cliff Lodge. While there watching the worlds best (Patrick Edlinger), Chris Pendleton, Bret Ruckman and I started looking seriously at the Hellgate. There were rumors of some Mugs Stump routes on the main wall but once we hiked up there we liked the looks of the towers. We climbed Social Realism first and then Desp arete. We scrambled up the gulley to get on top of Tower 2.

Mugs was bummed out that we were rap bolting those routes so he led this one, hence the name. He said that earlier in the year he had been having nighmares on some wall in Alaska thinking that the worlds sport climbers would show up at the Hellgate. It turned out just to be us locals.

At that time it was unusual to be buying so many bolts and I think Conrad Anker was working at Timberline Sports where i was buying up bolts. I remember purposely not telling him where we were climbing until we had a few routes in. Sorry Conrad! May 11, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+ R
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+ R
Add hand sanitizer to the rack. Some of the best pieces at the roof sit right in a large pile of guano. Some of the less than stellar pieces sit in an area that is glazed with bat piss (?).
I think the lead took GRK about 60 minutes. I've never seen him spend so much time digging around for gear and what he ended up finding would have been amusing if it hadn't been so high consequence...
I'm gonna file that one under "not for everyone" even by Hellgate trad standards. I may be talked into leading it after a recon on TR but the GRK's onsight style is out of my league. Proud and very unnerving to watch. Jul 8, 2013
grk10vq    
ha! we were wondering the same thing? this line is good practice for turning parts of your brain off. Jul 8, 2013
zoso  
Way to have a good head! There's something intriguing about that choss.

I wonder how many ascents has this route has even had anyway? 3? Jul 7, 2013