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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Martinez, Douglas, Star '04
Page Views: 245 total, 2/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Aug 1, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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As for all Hellgate areas Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a great, tightly bolted route on good rock. Crux is pulling past the third bolt, followed by cruiser climbing up alternating corners.

There is a second pitch to this route called Brainless Conformants, 5.11a.

Location

This route is on the south face of Tower One. Just to the right of Sinbad (Ruckman guide), which is the obvious giant left facing corner.

Protection

60 meter rope, Helmet, 12 bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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skiandclimb
  5.10a
skiandclimb  
  5.10a
Bouldery crux at 3rd bolt is short and fun. Felt more like .10a to me and very closely (over) bolted compared to the original routes at Hellgate. Great rock with good rests at most bolts. Good warm-up route. Jul 25, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
And original at that...
It's not grade inflation, it's subjectivity and the Martinez way. At least his shit is consistently soft. How hard do you think this pitch would be in the Gunks? In Maple? Sep 8, 2013
split161
  5.9+
split161  
  5.9+
Just being honest, ran into three parties who climbed it and felt the same that day...not trying to take anything away from the route.

Hellgate grade inflation is so 5 years ago so... Sep 7, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Dude you're so hard. Downgrading Hellgate is so 5 years ago so... Sep 7, 2013
split161
  5.9+
split161  
  5.9+
cool route, a lot of fun!!...although I thought the climbing to be around 9+...tons of good holds, stances and rests. thanks for putting up all these routes!! will have to check out the 2nd pitch next time! Sep 7, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I think this pitch is so-so. Nothing special. It is worth doing however, just to get to the pitch above, which is fantastic. Jul 23, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9+
Great line, fun moves with and neat bit right up the arete itself. If you do this jump on pitch 2. The second pitch is barely much harder and the its crux had 3 bolts in 8 feet right off the belay. Apr 23, 2012
grego
SLC, Utah
grego   SLC, Utah
Awesome route. We did the second pitch as well which is super fun. I'm not sure why they don't mention that this is a rare two-pitch fully bolted amazing route. Super exposed and kinda scary. Aug 21, 2009
Zirkel
Bishop, CA
Zirkel   Bishop, CA
Agree with above comment. WAY fun route -- diverse and exposed climbing. Stepping up to the anchors was wild. If you can find it, do it! Jul 31, 2008
Robert MacKinnon
  5.10b/c
Robert MacKinnon  
  5.10b/c
A fantastic route with variety and exposure!
I agree that the crux is just after the third bolt and then the route eases up a bit, while the exposure increases. Jul 31, 2008