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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Hunt, McImerney, Medara 1991
Page Views: 1,669 total, 13/month
Shared By: David Shiembob on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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As for all Hellgate areas Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A fun, stout route just right of the cave. The route on average is slightly overhanging but it's stepped, so the cruxes are all pretty steep. A bouldery crux at the first bolt, another at the 2nd bolt, and a third, more pumpy type crux up high. The 2nd crux is the burliest I'd say, an awkward bulge. I've only climbed the first pitch, it's .11d. The 2nd pitch looks like fun though.

Location

Tower 1, just right of the cave.

Protection

You'll want a piece in between the 1st and 2nd bolt. A .4 camalot went in closer to the 2nd bolt, if you wanted a piece a little lower, probably a .5 or so. Draws other than that.

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John Steiger  
 
Gotta say the first pitch is one of the best 5.11s in upper LCC (Medussa comes close, but this is better). The pitch is almost entirely in the dark stuff, which seems to be the best rock Hellgate has to offer. The higher of the two anchors needs a chain (18 inches should do it, plus a quick link) and a third bolt would be welcome. Like everyone else it seems, we did only the first pitch -- the second is in the poorer quality white rock, and even more intimidating than the first. Jul 30, 2015
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Oddly, i guess, I found the technical crux to be right at the first bolt - the moves getting established in the crack. Easy gear there. The second bolt "crux" seemed pretty straightforward, and the tough climbing ends quickly. The rest of the route is super juggy and steep, but with lots of rests interspersed between well-spaced bolts. The finish is wild! One of the best routes at the towers, for sure. Aug 15, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
 
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
 
Take a couple of .5s or a .5 and a .75 is you're a wuss. Or even a large nut if you still use those. I thought the .4 would look like a hot dog in a hallway so I skipped. There's an optional #2 placement somewhere higher that will reassure the meek during the trip between bolts.
The lower two cruxes are stout and technical, the upper section is reminiscent of Medusa with big moves between good holds and steeeeeeeeep climbing. There are tons of sucker holds that will explode your forearms if you don't nail the sequence.
Probably my new favorite line at Tower One. Jul 9, 2013
Nubbins80
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nubbins80   Salt Lake City, Utah
I got worked on the crux at the second bolt; does anyone have beta for that move? Aug 11, 2008