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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Franziska and James Garrett, Aug. 1993
Page Views: 5,423 total, 31/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Aug 29, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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As for all Hellgate areas Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is one of the best sport climbs I've ever done. Climb the arete on Tower One starting in the gully between Towers One and Two, eventually gaining a long white slab.

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Protection

Ten bolts to a metolius rap hanger with chain.
Miguel D
SLC
  5.8
Miguel D   SLC
  5.8
Lowered comfortably with a 70m rope. But as you know, not all 70s are created equal Jul 13, 2017
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9
WEAR HELMETS!
I witnessed a girl come within 12" of having her brain splattered all over the place by a piece of choss coming down the gully to her left. Or was it falling from the top? Either way, don't get dead. Sep 19, 2011
e rock
portland, or
e rock   portland, or
as far as belaying in the gulley goes, i have always been told to stand clear of the gully and have witnessed rocks speed out of that thing. they call it helmet gate for a reason. Jul 19, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
Did this as a warmup today, I didn't think it was that great, but fun climbing. Belaying at the top and rapping with a 60m seemed like the best option to me. Jun 17, 2007
D Argyle
Green Mountain Falls, CO
  5.9
D Argyle   Green Mountain Falls, CO
  5.9
There are 10(!) bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with rings. We used a sixty and had plenty of rope for lowering and rapping, just belay high in the gully and lower/rap to the right of the tree and scramble down. Jul 2, 2006
Charles Konopa  
  5.9
Use at least a 60m rope. If your belayer stands high in the gully and you lower to high in the gully, a 60m rope just barely make it. Still, make sure your belayer ties into the end of the rope for safety. This will help you avoid a 10-15 foot fall into the talus, scrapes and bruises. Sep 12, 2005
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
  5.9
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
  5.9
This climb is great!!!! It is possible to get off this route with one 60m rope. From the anchors on Little Hellion rappell to the anchors on Medussa, from there a 60m rope will get you down. Make sure you find the center of your rope because a 60m barly makes it. Jun 26, 2005