Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Franziska and James Garrett, Aug. 1993
Page Views: 5,665 total · 30/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Aug 29, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: As for all Hellgate areas Details

Description

This is one of the best sport climbs I've ever done. Climb the arete on Tower One starting in the gully between Towers One and Two, eventually gaining a long white slab.

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Protection

Ten bolts to a metolius rap hanger with chain.

Photos

philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
  5.9
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
  5.9
This climb is great!!!! It is possible to get off this route with one 60m rope. From the anchors on Little Hellion rappell to the anchors on Medussa, from there a 60m rope will get you down. Make sure you find the center of your rope because a 60m barly makes it. Jun 26, 2005
Charles Konopa  
  5.9
Use at least a 60m rope. If your belayer stands high in the gully and you lower to high in the gully, a 60m rope just barely make it. Still, make sure your belayer ties into the end of the rope for safety. This will help you avoid a 10-15 foot fall into the talus, scrapes and bruises. Sep 12, 2005
D Argyle
Green Mountain Falls, CO
  5.9
D Argyle   Green Mountain Falls, CO
  5.9
There are 10(!) bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with rings. We used a sixty and had plenty of rope for lowering and rapping, just belay high in the gully and lower/rap to the right of the tree and scramble down. Jul 2, 2006
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
Did this as a warmup today, I didn't think it was that great, but fun climbing. Belaying at the top and rapping with a 60m seemed like the best option to me. Jun 17, 2007
e rock
portland, or
e rock   portland, or
as far as belaying in the gulley goes, i have always been told to stand clear of the gully and have witnessed rocks speed out of that thing. they call it helmet gate for a reason. Jul 19, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.9
WEAR HELMETS!
I witnessed a girl come within 12" of having her brain splattered all over the place by a piece of choss coming down the gully to her left. Or was it falling from the top? Either way, don't get dead. Sep 19, 2011
Miguel D
SLC
  5.8
Miguel D   SLC
  5.8
Lowered comfortably with a 70m rope. But as you know, not all 70s are created equal Jul 13, 2017