Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Kimber Almond and Tony Calvert July 1995
Page Views: 1,671 total · 16/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 20, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: As for all Hellgate areas Details

Description

3 cruxes. Start in the easy, low angle crack, moving up the the initial vertical headwall for an awkward boulder problem with about 10 different variations on holds that never seem all that great (or are really huge, depending on what you found) At the top of the dihedral, move right to a great rest and get psyched for the next crux. The steep face above is why you came and sports long moves on enormous holds, with a full bag of sport climbing tricks that I didn't expect to use. The more creative you are, the easier it gets and powering through is far less fun. Crux 3 starts with the fist crack over left in a dihedral, clipping the final two bolts and pulling the lip to the chains.

Location

Just right of Medussa. Its initially hard to see the bolts on the headwall, but its all in there. Look to the white roof for the middle crux. Easy to scope this out and even get to the anchors from Medussa.

Protection

Probably 3 pieces are fine and only to protect the easy but runnout moves before each crux. I liked .4 or a .5, 1 and 3 camalots but you might want something slightly different. Loads of very long draws and runners - enough to cover the 10 bolts whatever gear you choose and the chains. It helps to have 2 or 3 super long runners to straighten the rope out.

Photos

tenesmus
  5.12a/b
tenesmus  
  5.12a/b
Its easy to work this after you warm up on Medussa. I like how each crux is different, making it feel like 3 different climbs. Sort of the Teeanova of Hellgate but with more memorable cruxes, position and (obviously) variable rock. Jul 20, 2010
bheller
SL UT
  5.12b
bheller   SL UT
  5.12b
This really is a "whole package" route. Diverse climbing, some tricky cruxes, big exposure, strange rock... if it wasn't plauged by choss and didn't offer a big shelf rest after the first crux, I'd offer another star. I think Tenesmus meant 35 meters- I remember a 70 being just right for being lowered off. Jul 21, 2010
tenesmus
  5.12a/b
tenesmus  
  5.12a/b
Maybe it hadn't been climbed for a while before you got on, or maybe you cleaned it really well? All the rock at Hellgate is suspect, but those marbelly jugs were generally solid with a few needing a brushing. The rock at the very top seemed to be the most friable but the rest didn't seem to shed as badly. I doubt this has ever been a high traffic route, but its cooler than Medussa by a long ways and should get done more.

Did I mention its easy to TR and work out? Jul 21, 2010
K Blase
Salt Lake City, UT
K Blase   Salt Lake City, UT
I was up there a few days ago, and there was a huge bird's nest right about where the guy in the photo is on this route (directly right of the start of the flake on Medusa). The bird was actually lying dead at the base of the route, but there is a ton of bird shit near the top of this route. Looks like you could probably avoid most of it, but it might be there a while since its sheltered. Jun 9, 2017
JBONE
  5.12b
JBONE  
  5.12b
So good. Shade till 2pm in the hot summer. Aug 3, 2017