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The Melting Mud Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in The Melting Mud Wall
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AltaTraz S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Public Nuisance S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Elevation: | 8,500 ft |
| GPS: | 40.59, -111.644 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 21,985 total · 168/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Sep 12, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page.
Details
UDOT has begun construction of eight Remote Avalanche Control Systems (RACS) permanently installed in the starting zones above the Hellgate cliffs on May 21, 2018. In the interest of public and worker safety, the entire construction zone will be closed to public access for the duration of the project. This includes the runout zones below where rock fall, both natural and work related, may impact.
The climbing and construction areas are located on private land and at the request of the landowner, will be CLOSED. These areas include, all of the Main Slidepath Area, Main Wall, Tower 3, 2, 1, Hell is for Children, and Altaworld.
The climbing and construction areas are located on private land and at the request of the landowner, will be CLOSED. These areas include, all of the Main Slidepath Area, Main Wall, Tower 3, 2, 1, Hell is for Children, and Altaworld.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Stay on the trails
Details
This is private property. Respect it and consider it a privilege to climb here.
Description [Suggest Change]
This is the furthest east of the most significant East Hellgate Walls. Though one of the last to be developed, it is the first one encountered hiking up the trail. Maybe due to this last factoid, it is also probably the most popular and most crowded. MMW offers long and well protected routes, two-pitch routes, aesthetic movement, and modern day classics in the 5.8 to 5.12 range. If one discusses the highest quality (if there is such a concept in some people's minds regarding upper LCC) Hellgate limestone, perhaps the Melting Mud Wall, despite its name to the contrary, stands tall in the quality ratings.
If you want to get out of the gym and get that high alpine feeling with minimal effort, walk the 7 minutes it takes to get to this place. Big fun will be yours.
I will warn all visitors again, please wear a helmet at all times while visitng this area.
If you want to get out of the gym and get that high alpine feeling with minimal effort, walk the 7 minutes it takes to get to this place. Big fun will be yours.
I will warn all visitors again, please wear a helmet at all times while visitng this area.
Getting There [Suggest Change]
Park off the main Little Cottonwood Canyon Wall below the Microwave. This is directly across from the Alta bypass road.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Melting Mud Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
7 Comments
More About The Melting Mud Wall
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Guidebooks (10)
Salt Lake, UT
Do yourself a favor, if you want to know what you're climbing, go to IME and pick them up and you'll help support the guys developing these areas and spending time and $$$ on bolts. Jul 5, 2012
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Love this wall.. the wall is reasonably clean with consistent grade and a lot of fun to climb.. flakes, pockets, jugs, monos, the whole range. Still need to be careful on belay for choss but you should be paying attention anyway. Nov 28, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
These are shown on Greg's topo as #5 and #6, respectively. Route climbs the face between the two routes and finishes at bolted anchors located directly above the anchors for #5 AntiDote. Jun 30, 2013
Pleasant Grove
thanks. Sep 6, 2016
Sandy, UT
To the developers of this area thank you very much. I imagine the amount of time, effort and cost that went into developing the area is staggering. Don't listen to the whiners. To quote the Rollins Band "..the ones that don't do anything are always the ones that try to put you down..."
Quick and easy access, wicked fun climbing, awesome location, nicely done.
Thank you, I will buy the topo to help out. Sep 7, 2016
The Mountain Project instructions to find the wall were great. The wall was easy to find and the routes were straightforward to discern. Los Crudos (5.8) is right in front of you as you come up the switchback trail (look for the small shrub about half way up the wall). Minor Threat (5.9) is the further right on the wall. Jul 27, 2017