Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

AltaTraz S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Public Nuisance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

This is the furthest east of the most significant East Hellgate Walls. Though one of the last to be developed, it is the first one encountered hiking up the trail. Maybe due to this last factoid, it is also probably the most popular and most crowded. MMW offers long and well protected routes, two-pitch routes, aesthetic movement, and modern day classics in the 5.8 to 5.12 range. If one discusses the highest quality (if there is such a concept in some people's minds regarding upper LCC) Hellgate limestone, perhaps the Melting Mud Wall, despite its name to the contrary, stands tall in the quality ratings.

If you want to get out of the gym and get that high alpine feeling with minimal effort, walk the 7 minutes it takes to get to this place. Big fun will be yours.
I will warn all visitors again, please wear a helmet at all times while visitng this area.
Stay on the trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Park off the main Little Cottonwood Canyon Wall below the Microwave. This is directly across from the Alta bypass road.

19 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Melting Mud Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Melting Mud Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in The Melting Mud Wall »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Graden Swett
Salt Lake City, Utah
Graden Swett   Salt Lake City, Utah
I think a lot of the confusion about where the routes are on this wall comes from the routes
Repeat and Offend, Melting Into Madness , and Bird Is the Word all sharing the same start, with Bird Is The Word being the second pitch to Melting Into Madness and Repeat and Offend being a variation.
Once you know that, the rest of the MP topo is pretty easy to discern. Have fun and always wear your helmet at Hell Gate! Oct 22, 2017
Went to IME Climbing this morning to get the Greg Martinez Topo Map, but IME told me that it's no longer in print. I didn't spring for the full guide book and hoped for the best. When we arrived, we dade it up to The Melting Mud Wall with MP only no problem.

The Mountain Project instructions to find the wall were great. The wall was easy to find and the routes were straightforward to discern. Los Crudos (5.8) is right in front of you as you come up the switchback trail (look for the small shrub about half way up the wall). Minor Threat (5.9) is the further right on the wall. Jul 27, 2017
climb 2 smile
Sandy, UT
climb 2 smile   Sandy, UT
I found your shoes and sent you a text.

To the developers of this area thank you very much. I imagine the amount of time, effort and cost that went into developing the area is staggering. Don't listen to the whiners. To quote the Rollins Band "..the ones that don't do anything are always the ones that try to put you down..."

Quick and easy access, wicked fun climbing, awesome location, nicely done.
Thank you, I will buy the topo to help out. Sep 7, 2016
Great Area, stayed till dark and left my Sportiva Futuras lying on the ground, realized it a couple days later when I went out for another session, went back to crag, Futuras weren't there. Please let me know if you came to this crag and picked them up. Left them there August 31st.
thanks. Sep 6, 2016
jzp
Pleasant Grove
jzp   Pleasant Grove
Cotton Mouth King 5.11a 15 draws Jul 20, 2014
R Connors
Salt Lake City, UT
R Connors   Salt Lake City, UT
Does anyone have any beta for a bolt line located between AntiDote (10a) and Brain Doner (11b)?

These are shown on Greg's topo as #5 and #6, respectively. Route climbs the face between the two routes and finishes at bolted anchors located directly above the anchors for #5 AntiDote. Jun 30, 2013
OldManRiver
Cottonwood Heights, UT
OldManRiver   Cottonwood Heights, UT
^ +1. IME topo is great. First time i climbed there another group had it. Last time I had it and another group needed beta.

Love this wall.. the wall is reasonably clean with consistent grade and a lot of fun to climb.. flakes, pockets, jugs, monos, the whole range. Still need to be careful on belay for choss but you should be paying attention anyway. Nov 28, 2012
chrisIerickson Erickson
Salt Lake, UT
chrisIerickson Erickson   Salt Lake, UT
We got up here with the Mountain Project app and realized it had no info on route locations. For that, you needed to buy 'the papers' at IME for $10.

Do yourself a favor, if you want to know what you're climbing, go to IME and pick them up and you'll help support the guys developing these areas and spending time and $$$ on bolts. Jul 5, 2012

More About The Melting Mud Wall

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within The Melting Mud Wall (30)

Most Popular · Newest