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Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

AltaTraz S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Public Nuisance S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 40.59, -111.644 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,244 total · 175/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Sep 12, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Stay on the trails Details

Description

This is the furthest east of the most significant East Hellgate Walls. Though one of the last to be developed, it is the first one encountered hiking up the trail. Maybe due to this last factoid, it is also probably the most popular and most crowded. MMW offers long and well protected routes, two-pitch routes, aesthetic movement, and modern day classics in the 5.8 to 5.12 range. If one discusses the highest quality (if there is such a concept in some people's minds regarding upper LCC) Hellgate limestone, perhaps the Melting Mud Wall, despite its name to the contrary, stands tall in the quality ratings.

If you want to get out of the gym and get that high alpine feeling with minimal effort, walk the 7 minutes it takes to get to this place. Big fun will be yours.
I will warn all visitors again, please wear a helmet at all times while visitng this area.

Getting There

Park off the main Little Cottonwood Canyon Wall below the Microwave. This is directly across from the Alta bypass road.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: The Melting Mud Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Melting Mud Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Los Crudos
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 89
Rat Bastards
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 91
Minor Threat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Wisky Bench
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 117
Antidote
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 77
Dayglow Abortions
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
Repeat and Offend
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 77
Melting Into Madness
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 38
Martinez Mind Melter
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 35
The Bird Is the Word
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 42
Cotton Mouth King
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Sinistar
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 54
Brain Doner
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 24
AltaTraz
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 56
Public Nuisance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Los Crudos
 93
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Rat Bastards
 89
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Minor Threat
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wisky Bench
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Antidote
 117
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dayglow Abortions
 77
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Repeat and Offend
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Melting Into Madness
 77
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Martinez Mind Melter
 38
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Bird Is the Word
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Cotton Mouth King
 42
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Sinistar
 21
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Brain Doner
 54
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
AltaTraz
 24
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Public Nuisance
 56
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Melting Mud Wall »

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chrisIerickson Erickson
Salt Lake, UT
chrisIerickson Erickson   Salt Lake, UT
We got up here with the Mountain Project app and realized it had no info on route locations. For that, you needed to buy 'the papers' at IME for $10.

Do yourself a favor, if you want to know what you're climbing, go to IME and pick them up and you'll help support the guys developing these areas and spending time and $$$ on bolts. Jul 5, 2012
OldManRiver _
Cottonwood Heights, UT
OldManRiver _   Cottonwood Heights, UT
^ +1. IME topo is great. First time i climbed there another group had it. Last time I had it and another group needed beta.

Love this wall.. the wall is reasonably clean with consistent grade and a lot of fun to climb.. flakes, pockets, jugs, monos, the whole range. Still need to be careful on belay for choss but you should be paying attention anyway. Nov 28, 2012
Rich Connors
Salt Lake City, UT
Rich Connors   Salt Lake City, UT
Does anyone have any beta for a bolt line located between AntiDote (10a) and Brain Doner (11b)?

These are shown on Greg's topo as #5 and #6, respectively. Route climbs the face between the two routes and finishes at bolted anchors located directly above the anchors for #5 AntiDote. Jun 30, 2013
jzp
Pleasant Grove
jzp   Pleasant Grove
Cotton Mouth King 5.11a 15 draws Jul 20, 2014
Great Area, stayed till dark and left my Sportiva Futuras lying on the ground, realized it a couple days later when I went out for another session, went back to crag, Futuras weren't there. Please let me know if you came to this crag and picked them up. Left them there August 31st.
thanks. Sep 6, 2016
climb 2 smile
Sandy, UT
climb 2 smile   Sandy, UT
I found your shoes and sent you a text.

To the developers of this area thank you very much. I imagine the amount of time, effort and cost that went into developing the area is staggering. Don't listen to the whiners. To quote the Rollins Band "..the ones that don't do anything are always the ones that try to put you down..."

Quick and easy access, wicked fun climbing, awesome location, nicely done.
Thank you, I will buy the topo to help out. Sep 7, 2016
Went to IME Climbing this morning to get the Greg Martinez Topo Map, but IME told me that it's no longer in print. I didn't spring for the full guide book and hoped for the best. When we arrived, we dade it up to The Melting Mud Wall with MP only no problem.

The Mountain Project instructions to find the wall were great. The wall was easy to find and the routes were straightforward to discern. Los Crudos (5.8) is right in front of you as you come up the switchback trail (look for the small shrub about half way up the wall). Minor Threat (5.9) is the further right on the wall. Jul 27, 2017
Jordan Wesolek
Chicago, IL
Jordan Wesolek   Chicago, IL
Hey I think I may have left my water bottle up at the crag. It is a nalgene with a ton of stickers on it, one from Miguel's Pizza, Brown Brothers Tattoo, Brooklyn Boulders, Moosejaw - those are just a few to name. Please message me if you find it!

wesolek.jordan@gmail.com Jul 18, 2018 · Lost & Found

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