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Routes in Tower One

Armed and Hammered S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bollocks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Brainless Conformants S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cause for Alarm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheap Thrills T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Contrapasso S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heathens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hell is for Children S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Holy Hell it's Hot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Hellion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Medussa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pandora S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Rezin Scraper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shelter from the Storm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
What the Hell T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Access Issue: Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: As for all Hellgate areas Details

Description

Tower One is the southeast most tower of the three main towers. It is usually the first wall one encounters during the approach to Main Hellgate.

Mugs Stump and friends were the first to really start exploring this area. A high concentration of good climbing in a small area awaits the climber here. Bring gear to supplement the bolt placements as most of the Tower One climbing remains quite trad in character. You'll like it!

Getting There

As for Main Hellgate. Stick to the trail. This will be the first tower low and east that one encounters. Plan on about a 15 minute approach time. Avoid trespassing on private property.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tower One

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
Heathens
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
Little Hellion
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 37
Bollocks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Brainless Conformants
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Cheap Thrills
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 66
Medussa
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Shelter from the Storm
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 5
Pandora
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heathens
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Little Hellion
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bollocks
 37
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Brainless Conformants
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Cheap Thrills
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Medussa
 66
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Shelter from the Storm
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Pandora
 5
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tower One »

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Nubbins80
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nubbins80   Salt Lake City, Utah
Does anyone have info on the route just right of Medussa that travels up through the steepest part of the cave?

Thanks Aug 7, 2008
Does anyone have the info on the two moderate routes just to the right of Hell is for Children? This section of wall now has 3 routes. The middle route was 8 bolts and felt about 5.6. I didn't try the right most route but it looked similar. They both have dark grey hangers and are much easier to spot than HIFC. Fun moderate additions to Hellgate. Jun 18, 2015
The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance will be doing some fixed anchor replacement over the next two weeks at Hellgate - to start at Tower One tonight/tomorrow. Please be patient with our fixed lines and temporarily closed routes. If you want to help with this effort- consider donating to the SLCA to help purchase stainless steel hardware. You can donate here: saltlakeclimbers.org/donate/ Sep 12, 2017

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